Day 152 (November 22)

Today was the end of the trip. We hiked 13 miles and summited Springer Mountain, Georgia before noon. It was a sunny, beautiful day to complete the journey. An amazing journey. Thanks for your interest in my trip. Take care.

Day 151 (November 21)

We had beautiful weather for our hike of 20 miles today. Left Neels gap at 7:00 a.m. and powered up Blood Mountain in an hour. Wonderful views from up there. We have 12 miles to go! 

Spending our last night stealth camping -- its going to be cold. We should summit Springer about noon tomorrow, and then we'll meet Grahm and Bern for a ride back to Atlanta. Zest and I will stay at Grahm's and leave Sunday. Hope to go to the Cheesecake Factory to eat. All is well. Take care.

Day 149 (November 19)

We completed a 17 mile hike today, starting out in 10 degree weather. It was a tough hike. Lots of ups and downs with relatively little flat trail. Nevertheless, we met our distance objective by 3:30 p.m. -- pretty quick. Only 52 miles to go.

Day 148 (November 18)

Today's hike was in record low temperatures --  somewhere in the single digits. The windchill was below zero. So much for balmy North Carolina/Georgia. We did 16 miles from Deep Gap to Dicks Creek Gap. In the process, we left North Carolina and entered Georgia, number 14 of the 14 states on the AT! That warmed my heart! Only 70 miles remain. We are staying at Top of Georgia Hostel tonight, which is only a half mile off the trail and brand new. It is the best hostel on the trail. We got a free ride into Hiawassee for an all-you-can-eat buffet. 

Heading out into the cold again tomorrow for 17 miles to Helen, GA, and hopefully another night indoors. Take care. 

Day 147 (November 17)

We woke to rain this morning and decided to zero in Franklin, NC. The rain ended in the afternoon, and it got cold. The windchill is expected to be below zero tomorrow. We will hike about 16 miles to keep to our projected finishing date on Saturday. I spent the day napping, writing, and mailing gear home. I will be a few pounds lighter in pack weight tomorrow, especially since I will be wearing most of my clothes. Take care.

Day 146 (November 16)

Got a 20 miler in today. The temperatures were in the 30s, but it rained the last hour. It's hard to get any good temperatures in Georgia. It is supposed to rain more heavily tomorrow, so we may zero. We're still in Franklin, NC, the gem capital of the world according to locals. However, we are now only 85.4 miles from Springer. 

Here's a look at Georgia from Albert Mountain in North Carolina. Take care.

Day 145 (November 15)

Had a short day today. It was 19 degrees when we started, but sunny. We made our 10 mile objective by noon. Staying in a motel in Franklin, NC -- a quaint mountain town. We're trying a 20 mile slack pack tomorrow back here. It is supposed to be cold and rainy. Hoping to stay on track, finishing one week from today. 

Another water source on today's route. Pure mountain water. Take care.

Day 144 (November 14)

Zest and I started hiking at 6:47 this morning. It was cold all day, but we made 22 miles. I don't think it got above freezing today. At noon, I had ice hanging from my beard. We have eight days of hiking remaining according to our self-imposed schedule. Tonight we are in a hostel run by a couple from England. It is unlike the typical hostel. Luxurious. I guess it's a bit like a hostel in England: no mice, grand furnishings, TV, showers, modern plumbing, etc. 

We hope to do 10 miles tomorrow. Got some great views. Take care.

Day 143 (November 13)

We had a short hike today -- 13.4 miles -- but it was a tough uphill. Finished at the Nantahala River and have a wonderful bunk house to sleep in tonight. Nine days to the finish from here. We went over a nice bald today, but it was a little gloomy with the sun. The bald and a typical water source on the trail. 

Big climbs tomorrow. Looking to do 22 miles and finish at a hostel. Take care.

Day 142 (November 12)

We did a 15 mile slack pack today,which means we hiked with a lighter pack weight back to the lodge we stayed in last night. Worked well. Tomorrow we will start at the same point and head south with full packs. The weather has held well: a bit cool, but no problem for hiking. Just need to keep the rain and snow away. 

Fontana Dam is a wonderful recreation area. At 480 feet, the dam is the tallest east of the Rockies! Take care.

Day 141 (November 11)

We had a great day of hiking today. The temperatures were in the 70s, we covered 23 miles, and we finished the Smokies. Tonight we are staying at the Fontana Dam Lodge. Fontana Dam is another TVA project completed by the CCC. Tomorrow is supposed to be a carbon copy of today regarding weather. Friday will turn cold like the rest of the country. We are trying to complete miles with end points in warm places. Fun challenge. One hundred sixty-seven miles to Springer Mountain!

Day 140 (November 10)

Hiked a great 18 miles today. Zest and I got a hitch out of Gatlinberg about 9:00 a.m. What a great vacation city! Fifteen miles to the trail head. We went up and over Clingmans Dome today, the highest point on the AT. We also made it to under 200 miles to go, and over 2,000 miles completed, on the AT. We're staying at a shelter tonight. Lots of mice. They never vacation. The weather is supposed to hold for the next two days, so we hope to make some good miles.

Day 139 (November 9)

I am doing a nero today in Gaitlinburg, TN. I was able to re-connect with Zest, my hiking partner since New York. He went off-trail for a few days to attend his daughter's wedding. I stayed at Iceberg Shelter last night -- appropriately named. I had every article of clothing on and was inside my 25 degree bag with my tent rain fly over that. The shelter is at the top of a mountain in the Smokies. It was a nice downhill hike this morning to Newfound Gap where I got a quick hitch for the 15 miles into town. 

Gaitlinburg is a fun tourist town, a bit like Disneyland, clean with lots of shops. Also, one can sample whiskey here from various recognized stills. Bootlegging was big in the area during prohibition. Out of that tradition, whiskey manufacturing evolved from moonshine and NASCAR evolved from the modified cars used to run moonshine to various markets. Capitalism at its finest!

Day 138 (November 8)

Great day of hiking in the Smokies. They are beautiful, and the trail runs high up, so you have views of many of vistas. I hiked 23 miles today through lots of snow. It slows the miles and drains one's energy. Once the elevation drops and temperatures warm, the journey won't seem so arduous, but man it is tough right now. 

I am in a shelter at the top of a mountain freezing my keister off with about a dozen other hikers. The next few days are supposed to be 50-60 degree daytime highs. Looking forward to that. Take care.

Day 137 (November 7)

Charlie and I did a slack pack from Standing Bear Hostel today. It was a 10 mile downhill, saving me from doing it uphill tomorrow and giving me a good start on the Smokies. The weather was cold this morning, but felt good if you kept moving. We started at 7:30 a.m. and finished about 1:30 p.m. We took six sodas with us and played a bit of trail magic on hikers coming up hill. Each of the lucky six was happy to take a cool coke. Then, with three miles to go, we came upon a cooler full of trail magic that had just been placed, probably for the weekend. It was full of gatorade, iced tea, cookies and wonderful banana bread. It was nice that Charlie got to experience trail magic.

Dan picked Charlie up this evening to take him back to Johnson City. He flies home from there tomorrow. The fact that Dan found this place is a tribute to his high tech abilities! Take care.

Day 136 (November 6)

Charlie and I started out from our stealth camp in rain this morning. Hit the trail about 7:40 a.m. We hiked about four hours and made 10 miles to Standing Bear Hostel. We are three miles from the Smokies. Hiking was tough with lots of blown down trees to get through. It did turn sunny at the end of our walk, though!

We are going to slack pack tomorrow for 15 miles. We will shuttle into the Smokies and hike back here. That will allow Charlie to connect with Dan and Shara so he can get to their home in Johnson City and to a flight back to Ames on Saturday afternoon. With all the snow, it's been great having Chuck blaze the trail for me this past week. Take care.

Day 135 (November 5)

We had a good, 23-mile hike today in overcast conditions. It was supposed to rain in the afternoon, but thankfully it held off. We walked in quite a bit of snow again. I bought gaiters in Hot Springs and was glad I did. My feet stayed dry. Charlie set the pace again. We have a nice stealth spot to camp tonight. Got some terrific pictures from Max's Bald: 360 degree vistas with the gigantic Smokies in the distance. Take care.

Day 134 (November 4)

Made 16 miles today in relative ease. At lower elevations, the snow was not a problem. Charlie and I are in Hot Springs, NC at Laughing Springs Hostel tonight. The trail still had a lot of blown down trees and bushes to get around today, but not bad. The sun was shining. We will see about tomorrow. We're hoping to get 20+ miles in.

Day 133 (November 3)

Charlie and I headed out this morning from Laurel Trading Post Hostel for an 18 mile hike. One half mile into it, we realized the challenge presented by 12-18" of snow fall. Tough! Our feet were soaked and cold all day. The upside was sunshine and mild temperature. And we made it to another hostel where a wood stove has us warm and drying out. Chainsaw, the guy running the place, made us dinner and will take us to the trail head after breakfast in the morning. Only 16 miles to Hot Springs tomorrow. We are at lower elevation now and the snow should be less of a problem. At times today, we were on hands and knees crawling under trees downed by the snow. Quite a day. Take care.

Day 132 (November 2)

No hiking today. I'm still at Laurel Trading Post hostel. Third night. The snow is melting, however, and Charlie and Grahm are arriving at about 6:00 p.m. Chuck will hike with me for the week and Grahm will head back to Atlanta.

Happy to have shelter here out of the weather. Take care.

Day 131 (November 1)

It was a good decision to stay in a hostel last night. The area received 8-10 inches of snow. I had the hostel to myself. Three more hikers fell out of the mountains today as it continues to snow. Charlie and Grahm will connect with me tomorrow. Chuck and I will hike for a week beginning Monday morning. Twenty-five is the predicted low for Sunday night. Then it warms. It is two days to the Smokies, so hopefully Chuck and I can make some miles. Looks like three weeks to the end. Take care.

Day 130 (October 31)

I had a comfortable night in the shelter. It got pretty cold outside, but I had all my clothes on and my tent rain fly over my sleeping bag, so I stayed warm. I headed up the mountain just after sunrise. Beautiful bald in the first mile. Stopped for pictures. It was supposed to be rainy, but the weather didn't start until late afternoon. Four to eight inches of snow are predicted for tonight. I found a hostel to stay in for the night, and probably tomorrow with the snow. I only hiked 16 miles today. 

This place is scary backwoods North Carolina/Tennessee. Appropriate for Halloween. The hostel proprietor has a gun strapped to his belt at all times. He's a nice guy and a good cook. He says bear meat tastes like steak. Here are todays photos. Take care.

Day 129 (October 30)

I planned to zero in Erwin, but the weather forecast was for a sunny day today, rain on Friday, and snow on Saturday, so I hiked. I'm staying in a shelter tonight with four other hikers getting ready to take on a 30 degree night. I enjoyed the dry bed and warm stay at Uncle Johnny's hostel. The Nolichucky river runs right beside it. Nice to hear the water. 

I hope to be in another hostel tomorrow night where I will zero and wait to hook up with Charlie. Take care.

Day 128 (October 29)

Today was a bit gloomy on the trail. I woke up to the sound of rain on my tent fly. I walked in a cloud most of the day. Hiked Unaka Mountain -- 5,180 feet -- which was challenging with the wet. At the end of the 21 miles was Uncle Johnny's hostel, so things brightened up. Dry and warm tonight, taking a zero tomorrow at Johnny's before moving south. Take care.

Day 127 (October 28)

Another great day of hiking. I made 21 miles over some pretty good climbs. Walked over Jane Bald, another scenic, grassy plain on a mountaintop. I am stealth camping tonight. Had planned to stay at a hostel but I missed the turn-off. I hiked alone today; Zest is taking a few days off to attend his daughter's wedding on Saturday. I hope I can get out of the sack tomorrow morning. Zest is usually banging the drum at 5:30 a.m. I should make Erwin Tennessee tomorrow if it doesn't rain in the morning. Right now, the trail threads back and forth along the North Carolina/Tennessee border. Take care.

Day 126 (October 27)

Terrific hiking today -- a comfortable 16 miles. We climbed for about a half hour coming out on a mountain bald, i.e. a grassy plain on top a mountain. Beautiful 360 degree vistas. It was about 50 degrees and the sun was shining with light winds. This was perhaps my favorite scene on the AT. I lay spread eagle in the grass at the top and simply tried to appreciate it all. Heaven. Take care.

Day 125 (October 26)

We took a zero day today: no hiking. Got to church; watched a bit of football; bought some warmer hiking clothes for the Smokies coming up; and did some writing. A full day. 

Church was unique. I went to a small, one-room country church on an obscure North Carolina backroad. Only about 30 people attending. I was introduced to a 7'2" man about my age. He turned out to be Tom Burleson: North Carolina state basketball hero; '72 Olympian; and former professional NBA player with the Seattle Supersonics! Nicest guy and what a giant. Back on the trail tomorrow. Take care.

Day 124 (October 25)

It was a gorgeous day to be hiking the AT! Perfect October day: sunny, 70s, light winds. Zest's brother dropped us off at the trail head around 8:00 am. We hiked like bandits for nine hours and his brother picked us up 23 miles later where the trail came out at a waterfall. 

Tennessee has quite a unique culture. Last night, we stood in line outside at Ridgewood Barbecue, voted Tennessee's best barbecue. We waited to get in at 4:30 p.m! It was worth the wait. The waitresses call you honey, baby, darling -- really helps when you're sixty, disheveled, bearded, and smell. Anyway, that barbecue powered us up those mountains today. 

Here is some of what I saw. Salute to the AT, Tennessee, and America! Take care.

Day 123 (October 24)

We Had another excellent hike today. We left before daylight and made 20 miles, following Watawga Lake for half the day. It is a reservoir formed in the 30s under the infamous Tennessee Valley Authority boondoggle. Beautiful. Zest has a summer home in North Carolina and his brother lives in the area, so that is where we are staying for the next several days. We'll hike during the day, Zest's brother will pick us up at the end of the day, and we'll stay at Zest's home. Nice. 

Here is a photo from above Watawga Lake.

Day 122 (October 23)

Got a great send off from Crazy Larry's hostel this morning. Terrific breakfast: eggs piled hiker high, pancakes, thick bacon, and coffee. We, of course, left before light (Zest likes to do that). Climbed nine hundred feet out of Damascus in the dark. Crossed into Tennessee after four miles. Eleven states down and three to go. Hiked 23 miles today on a wonderful trail. Not too many rocks and long runs; even a few pasture miles. Good to see those cows.

Stealth camping tonight. It's supposed to be cold again. Cloudy for most of the day today, but tomorrow's forecast is sunny. Here is a little of Tennessee. Take care.

Day 121 (October 22)

Wow, did we freeze last night. I had all garments on and sleeping bag zipped to the bald spot under the stocking cap. I was still an icicle. Tough to get going on such mornings, but town food 12 miles away will motivate you. We are in a hostel in Damascus, VA tonight. Warm. Last four miles of Virginia tomorrow. It has been 500 good miles. I wonder how much property, once held by one of the eight Presidents from Virginia, we walked over. Lots of history. Take care.

Day 120 (October 21)

Hiked another 21 miles today. The weather was cloudy, so a bit dispiriting. Came across a footbridge with a beautiful, cascading waterfall. Had a snack and watched/listened for a while. We are in good shape to make Damascus, one of the ultimate hiker-friendly towns on the AT, tomorrow. Hope to stay in a hostel there. We have our tents set up in a shelter tonight. There's a 50% chance of rain. Sunny tomorrow though. Take care.

Day 119 (October 20)

Had a delightful, 18 mile hike today in 55 degree sunny weather. It froze last night, so the grass was frosty but turning wet. We hiked over Glade Mountain -- not too tough. Hiked along a stream for several miles under a canopy of rhododendron bushes again, which was nice. Mount Rogers visitor center was right on the route, so we stopped in. A lady gave me a free bag of beef jerky and later gave Zest and I an order of dough knots (garlic bread covered with butter, like crazy bread but in a knot). It is popular down here, but I had never heard of it. Delicious. 

We are stealth camping by a river tonight. Chance of rain tomorrow. Just a couple more days in Virginia. Here is a photo of the rhododendron trail tunnel. Take care.

Day 118 (October 19)

Beautiful, 23 mile hike today. Last night was the opposite. It rained and the wind blew. We were in a good shelter at the top of Chestnut Mountain huddled in sleeping bags with mice for entertainment. In fact, they seemed to have a hockey game going on with a pork and beans can all night long. We're staying in a motel tonight. When I took my pack off to empty my trash bag, out pops a mouse. I carried him from the shelter all day -- turds and all! We experienced some great trail magic today as well: two coolers of pop and cookies. So nice what people do. 

Here are a couple photos from today's walk. Take care.

Day 117 (October 18)

Wow, what a day. We started in the dark hiking with headlamps and finished in the rain at the top of a mountain in a shelter. It only got to about 50 degrees. Did 22 tough miles on what was supposed to be a sunny day... Maybe tomorrow. Take care.

Day 116 (October 17)

It was a short, 12 mile hike today. We left the shelter where we tented last night while it was still dark. I spent the afternoon rehabbing my sore leg. It seems to loosen up after I walk for a couple of miles, so I am happy to be able to keep hiking. Nice to have a son, Grahm, who can give me podiatric advice. Charlie, the vet, thought some deworming might help. Got some Tums. It was a beautiful day for hiking, and we got a great hitch into Bland, VA for a night at a motel. Back to the AT tomorrow. Take care.

Day 115 (October 16)

It was another wet hike today. We made 21 miles: in the rain for most of the morning, but dry/cloudy in the afternoon. Interesting terrain. Went through several miles of rododendrun bushes. They form a tunnel about eight feet high. Kinda like walking through a low-hanging jungle. The last several days of rain have the creeks running full, and the trail itself in many places is a creek. Fortunately, I was in my latest pair of shoes which are waterproof. This is my fourth pair. I had them overnighted to Woods Hole Hostel from REI. Thought I'd try a waterproof pair since winter is coming on. Perfect timing. Crazy how you can get a pair of shoes sent to the middle of the forest. Nice to have dry feet all day. It's supposed to be dry the next three days. I can't remember the last time that happened. We'll see. Take care.

Day 114 (October 15)

Today was a great hiking day. We got a hitch to the trail head and climbed a mile up to a ridge. Nine miles later, we were at Woods Hole Hostel. Got some nice vista shots above the clouds along the way. Thankfully, it didn't rain, but it is raining again tonight. We're dry in the hostel and had a great dinner made by the hosts. It's a picturesque spot with a menagerie of animals. It's run by "living off the land" type of people so dinner was all organic. Hope that natural food is leg healing. Take care.