Thursday June 15; Day nineteen; 30 miles; 33-80 degrees

Woke to a brisk morning- in the 30s.  We camped in view of snow @ nine thousand feet elevation. Close to Colorado, but still in New Mexico.  Short on food, out of camp stove gas.  Anna tried soaking pasta alfredo overnight to eat for breakfast. Yuk! We packed and headed out. Saw several elk in velvet. Beautiful, cold, mountain morning. Hands freezing, nose a faucet, sloppy eyes. Climbed higher. Real heart banger. Stunning views among the tears. Brazos Ridge @ 11000 feet.  Rolled over several snow drifts, still firm in the early hours. Splendid day. Made Colorado with a screaming 5 mile downhill on pavement into Horca Colorado along the Conjeos River-no services. I had a half dozen pitted prunes left at the end with another 40 mile day ahead.  Called for help. Anna's relatives from Monta Vista, a town ninety minutes away, came to our rescue. Charles and Margaret Stillings took us in.  We spent a day at their ranch.  Decided we would save the next section (Colorado) of the Great Divide Mountain Bike ride for next year. We have Colorado, Wyoming, and 200 miles of Canada to do, having accomplished rides across Montana and New Mexico, arguably the toughest of the 5 stars that make up the route. Thanks for your interest. Bike on!

Weds. June 14; Day 18; 40 miles; 80

Had a nice 5 mile downhill on pavement to begin the day.  The rest of the day was up and down mountains in that nine-10 thousand foot elevation range. Gasp, gasp, gassed! We were able to get water from rivers and streams, but our food is short.  Several former resupply sources on the route have closed. We did not check current upgrades to the map. Bad bikers. It will be a trick to find enough calories to make it to our next resupply. We travelled some beautiful landscape today- prime forest, vast open hillside fields, snow still in swales and north slopes, elk, bulls in velvet, mountain backdrop. Spiritual, connected, grateful. Take care.   

Tues. June 13; day 17; 42 miles; 80s temp

An early start from El Rito- climbing/pushing bikes much of the day.  No services- we stopped in Valacitos for water at the library-the only viable structure in town.  The host was reluctant to offer water, but did.  Dogs chased us out of town- an uphill exit.  A forest fire required we take a detour.  Another big up. Nick,the first of the northbound racers caught us at the top of the detour. Our 17th day, his 5th. Great guy and strong 38 year-old biker We came right next to the backfire built by firefighters. Smokey, causing Anna to feel nauseous.  Camped for the night at Hopewell Lake.  A couple from Albuquerque gave us water at the camp. Tough day.

Mon. June 12, day 16 15 miles; 80s

Got a slow start today by design.  Anna's new tire was being held at the El Rito post office 15 miles from Albiguiu, so we had breakfast on Wanda, proprietor of the B&B.  Such a wonderful lace to stay on the banks of the Chama river.  Heard beaver plopping in the river during the night- prolific in the area. They are nocturnal and had a beautiful moon to work by.  We are tenting tonight in El Rito on the grounds of an abandon college.  The place last saw classes two years ago. Looks new.  Tragic. Hoping for an early start in the morning.  Anna is euphoric about her new tire.  A miracle she made it 200 miles over rough terrain on that

Sun; June 11; Day 15; 43miles; 80s

What a day! Started pushing bikes up mountain @ 7:00.  Low on water, but at mile two an elk prospect/hunter gave us a gallon of ice water- Trail Angel.  At noon we had gone 15 miles.  But then we entered some downhill.  Very rocky; sandy; and full of ruts.  A significant challenge just to go downhill.  Indeed, both Anna and I had wrecks.  Anna hit some sand that threw her off, but with a 2 foot landing while her bike did a 360 in the air.  Big Smile.  Our final 90 minutes of riding on the day took us on a 15 mile down hill into the tiny 18 th century Spanish settlement of Abiquiu, home to 20th century artist Georgia O Keefe.  We are tenting at a delightful B&B along the Chama river.  The Chama flows into the Rio Grande. Proof positive that NM has a river.  

Sat June 10 Day 14; 40 miles

We left Cuba at 6:30.  The first 10 miles was uphill on asphalt.  We left early to get the cool temps. It worked well.  At 10 miles the road changed to gravel.  The rest of the day was up and down elevation between 8-nine thousand feet.  It was tough, but we took our time.  Having to walk the bikes often. We are in pine forests now- beautiful and cooler than desert of the past two weeks. Water is a problem still.  There are few streams in NM. Hoping to reach Abiquiu tomorrow, another 40 mile pedal at elevation.

Fri. June Nine Day 13 48 miles; 80s

We left our chain-link compound @ 7:30 this morning headed for Cuba.  A beautiful, light tail wind morning.  The highway was rolling with light traffic until 20 miles outside Cuba where traffic doubled, rockets in each direction.  We rolled into Cuba @ 1:00-good time for us.  We are staying in a Mom & Pop motel.  Feels amazing to shower off two days of salt and road grime, and to relax during the heat of the day. A CDT thru-hiker is staying here too.  Old guy who has done the PCT which he admitted was a piece of cake compared to his experience so far on the CDT.  He must carry 6 liters of water. We will leave early to tackle "perhaps" the toughest climbing section yet. Take care.