Day 65 (August 28)

Lake with a Concession Stand That I Hiked to Today

Beautiful hiking day in New York. The humidity left with last night's thunderstorm. I guess it was in the 90s yesterday. I hiked 23 miles today, second day in a row over 22. I saw two turtles and two turkeys on the trail today -- odd. I'm staying at Graymoor Spiritual Life Center tonight, a retreat and retirement center for friars. Wonderful shower and shelter to hang out in. I'm hoping to have a pizza delivered, but the guy hasn't shown up yet. Hiker food again. Take care.

Day 64 (August 27)

Got an early, 6:20 a.m. start from Wiley shelter this morning. I hiked 22 miles and just got set up stealth camping on Hosner Mountain when a thunderstorm hit. The tent held up well. It was a very warm, humid day for hiking, but perhaps tomorrow will be cooler. I still met about six NOBOs trying to make Katahdin before Oct. 15th when it closes. It's going to be tough for them. 

There were some nice, open fields to walk in today. Here is a photo of a wonderful, still-functional wooden tower:

Day 63 (August 26)

New York from Someplace Close to the Connecticut Border

Today was another great day on the AT. I left Connecticut and entered New York. Made about 17 miles and walked about a mile into Kent, Conn. for breakfast. Kent is a beautiful little town. There's hardly a blade of grass out of place in that town. They have a famous boys prep school there that I walked past. Lots of money. The trail went along the Housatonic river again, so I had another wonderful swim at about 2:00 p.m. I made a shelter at about 5:00 p.m. I met a retired cop from Boston. He treated me to a Macanudo cigar, and we had a great conversation. In fact, he gave me another Macanudo for the trail. Trail magic! It was a beautiful day weather-wise and easy walking. I ran into a lady on the trail who was so impressed by my thru-hiking she took my picture. I had to chuckle at that. There's supposed to be a hot dog stand along the trail tomorrow. Looking forward to that. Take care.

Day 62 (August 25)

I started my third month on the trail today. Still feeling good at 718 miles, about 1/3 of the way. I started out at Belters campsite today. I had some good climbs, concluding with Caleb's Peak where I am stealth camping -- illegal in Conn. I ran out of calories after 18 miles. The route today went about five miles along the Housatonic river again. Had a great swim. It's a beautiful day in the middle 70s, but the bugs have been ferocious! They should be gone with some cooler weather. The trees are beginning to turn colors. 

I met two more NOBOs today hoping to make Katahdin before Oct. 15th. Glad I'm heading south. I had a chuckle this morning when I went looking for the campsite privy. Connecticut is a pretty liberal state.

Day 61 (August 24)

I left Sages Ravine this morning at 6:55 a.m. -- a good start for ascending Bear Mountain, the highest point in Connecticut. It took about 20 minutes. I also climbed something called Lions Head, which had a nice view. Otherwise, Connecticut has been flat and wonderful hiking. I hiked about five miles along the Housatonic river. It is a bigger river with many trout fishermen. I made 17 miles at a leisurely pace on a beautiful sunny day. Take care.

Day 60 (August 23)

Today was a fantastic hiking day. I left Great Barrington, hitching a ride to the trail head, loaded with two Dunkin Donuts and coffee. I got started around 9:00 a.m. -- quite late, but the donuts... I went through a few open fields, which I really enjoy. I chased a big black snake off one section and passed by the site of Shays Rebellion which occurred in the evolving days of our republic. A lady named Dottie left two dozen gallons of cold, pure water on a picnic table next to the trail where water was scarce -- trail magic! I climbed to a ridge that provided a panoramic view of western Mass below. It went on for half a mile. Just beautiful. I followed a stream with a gorgeous cascading waterfall. Best of all, as I was approaching my camping site for the night, I looked across the stream and there were Kim and Jim! They used their Saturday to hike three miles into the AT where they figured I would be walking. That's six miles round trip! They brought me a beer, too. I did a double take. Got all choked up. That's what happens on the AT. People get you all choked up. It's amazing. Good happens!

Day 59 (August 22)

I spent a great night at Mt. Wilcox South Shelter. Two other south bound hikers (SOBOs) and I were the only occupants. It rained during the night, so it was nice to not be in a tent. I left before the other two hikers were up and had a nice, 12-mile hike to Rt#7, which is three miles out of Great Barrington, Mass. I hitched a ride into town to stay the night and resupply. It's a very busy tourist town. The guy I hitched with works in Manhattan during the week and lives here on the weekends. I'm looking forward to sunny weather forecasted for the next five days. Yippee! Took another picture of beautiful western Mass. where the trail has some honest to gosh dirt.

Day 58 (August 21)

Today started out with blueberry pancakes at Upper Goose Pond Cabin. You might remember I hand picked and carried them from the Cookie Lady's. Thumper, the cabin's caretaker, made 150 pancakes for a full cabin of hikers. Thumper is a retired 7th & 8th grade science teacher who volunteers his time. 

I got a later than usual start. I left walking in the rain, but it was light and kept me cool. I saw a porcupine today -- big one. I was careful moving around him. They don't seem to be too bothered by humans. He climbed a tree so he could be at eye level with me, then chattered his teeth. What a creature! The trail had me walk through some fields today. Loved it! Glad be a plainsman. Open field in Massachusetts with rain clouds.

Day 57 (August 20)

I got an early, 6:00 a.m. start this morning after a great stay at Tom Levardi's in Dalton, Mass. There were still a dozen tents in his yard and three guys sleeping on his porch when I hit the trail that headed for the Cookie Lady's place 10 miles south. I saw two bears along the trail. Both were cubs; one ran away while his sibling shimmied up a tree. Boy was he fast, but I couldn't understand that option. He just looked at me. At the Cookie Lady's, I picked a quart of blueberries. She and her husband Roy have a beautiful farm. I also enjoyed a couple of Cokes, hard boiled eggs, and of course cookies. A great place and beautiful berries. I carried a quart to the Goose Pond Cabin where I'm staying tonight. Thumper, the caretaker will use them on the pancakes he'll be making. I have a bunk tonight, and I had a great swim in the pond. I made 23 miles today in great weather. Take care.

Day 56 (August 19)

Today was my first day as a SOBO, i.e. a south bound hiker. It was so good! Beautiful weather, easy walking -- I made 17 miles by 2:00 p.m. The trail crossed a highway just outside Chesire, Massachusettes, and there was a Dunkin' Donuts less than a half mile away. I ate four donuts; a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich; chocolate milk; and coffee. Nice! I couldn't believe how quickly I ate that stuff, and I could have eaten more. Another eight miles, and I came into Dalton, Mass. I decided to stop at 2:30 p.m. and stay with Tom Levardi. He allows hikers to tent in his yard, shuttles people around, and has a half dozen bikes for hikers to use for riding around town. And it's all free. The neighbor lady even brought over watermelon. It was a great stop! Tom has been offering his hospitality for 35 years. Incredible American. Take care.

Day 53 (August 16)

Here is the Millinocket hostel where I escaped after the seven inch rain and which I left to climb Katahdin. I'm heading to Massachusetts on the bus; my last bus travel was in college. I'm looking forward to visiting with Jim and Kim. Maine was extraordinary in so many ways! Take care.

Day 52 (August 15)

I climbed to the summit of Mt. Katahdin today, the northern terminus of the AT. It was a beautiful day after yesterday's monsoon. I started at 7:30 a.m. and got down from the mountain six hours later. It can take five to 10 hours to complete the five-mile, up-and-down route. There are some pretty difficult rock and boulder scrambles with steep ups and downs, but all ages and genders seem to be able to get to the top. It is a majestic mountain and an honor to climb every step. The top of Katahdin is the first piece of land in America to feel the sun every day. I was so pumped, the ascent seemed to fly; not so coming down. It wasn't as difficult as I expected being very steep. It was just long.

At the bottom I hiked another 10 miles back to where we left camp in the rain yesterday for Millinocket. I can't miss any of the trail. I got a hitch back to town from a couple 75 year old buddies out for a drive on the back roads. What a hoot. They were drinking beer, and had chosen to drive the back roads so as to not be bothered by state police. I became the bartender for the two six packs in the back seat of the pickup. Each of them had three bottles of beer during the 18-mile ride. Great guys. They have lived in Millinocket all their lives. The town is dying, though it once had six separate paper mills. Millinocket used to produce the largest volume of newsprint in the world. The '63 High School B-ball team won the all New England state tournament at Boston Square Garden. They told me that moose population isn't what it use to be and that both of their wives are retiring soon from driving school buses. You can learn a lot in 18 miles at 40 mph whilst avoiding pot holes on either side of the road...

It was quite a day in Katahdin again. Pictures just don't do it justice.

Day 51 (August 14)

I woke up this morning to a puddle in my tent and the sound of running water along its edge. It rained all night and until this afternoon -- about three inches total. I packed up in the rain and got a ride to Millenocket with two other hikers whom I have been hiking and rafting with. I'm staying in a hostel tonight. There are probably a lot of thru-hikers here; they come out of the woods when it rains this hard. It's so nice to get dried out. We will catch a shuttle back to the base of Katahdin and summit tomorrow. It will be a long, 20-mile day: five up and down Katahdin and another 10 from Abol Bridge to Birches campground -- a section we planned to do today. Then, I'm taking the bus down to where Kim and Jim will pick me up. First 600 miles just about completed.

Photo of some old guy with Katahdin in the background.

Day 50 (August 13)

Today was another zero day, i.e. no miles. I and two other thru-hikers rafted the Penobscot River, a level four to five rapids river. We had a blast! Two guys fell out, one in the first 30 seconds. I threw up after running the first rapids but settled in after that. I bought photos and a video of the trip taken by the rafting company. They are terrific. It is raining heavily tonight and supposed to rain tomorrow for the last, 10-mile hike to the campground at the base of Katahdin. I'm hoping the weather allows for a summit on Friday. Another great day on the AT. Take care.

Day 49 (August 12)

Today was an awesome day on the AT. I only hiked 16 miles, but I was a rocket! I got to Abol bridge by 12:30 p.m. where a store is located. The weather is suppose to be bad for the next few days, so I am going to raft the Penobscot river, a three-quarter rapids, with two other thru-hikers. I get to sleep in tomorrow until about 7:00 p.m., raft in the afternoon, and get ready to hike Katahdin on Friday. The weather throughout the 100-mile wilderness couldn't have been better. Katahdin looks daunting, but so has everything else up to this point. Take care.

Day 48 (August 11)

Another terrific day on the AT. Beautiful hiking weather in the 100-mile wilderness. I went 18 miles from Potaywadjo Spring lean-to to Rainbow Stream lean-to. Got two nice swims in on lake Nahmakanta. The trail followed the south side of the lake for about six miles. Beautiful. The trail went about 100 yards right along a sandy beach. The only tough climb was Nesuntabunt Mountain: bit of a kicker. At this campsite along Pollywog stream is an excellent natural swimming pool with a cascade of water feeding it. Perfect temperature water. 

The Penobscot Tribe is the dominant tribe in the region. Thus the native names for points of interest. Thirty miles to Katahdin from here.

Day 47 (August 10)

Today was a perfect hiking day. I made 22 miles and had two swims at Crawford Pond and Jo Mary Pond. Hard to believe this is a wilderness. I'm staying in a shelter again tonight. Weve got a campfire going. It's only 50 miles to Katahdin. It took the 100-mile wilderness for the AT to seem like a trail. Take care.

Day 46 (August 9)

Today started out early -- 2:00 a.m. I had to get out of the shelter because the old guy lying next to me was snoring -- bellowing -- too loudly. He finished off each wheeze with a sort of mucus gurgle that was just too much. Of course most of us snore, so I couldn't hold it against him... The rain had stopped, and I had a great sleep until 5:00. Covered a lot of ground today: almost 19 miles and five mountains:
Chairback, Gulf Hagas, West Peak, Hay, and White Cap Mountain. I could see Katahdin from the top of White Cap -- still 73 miles away. I am stealth camping tonight. I like doing that; it's quiet. I pick up my bucket drop at a secret location 13 miles from here. Looking forward to that since my food supply is about caput. Looking forward to another rain-free day tomorrow. Today was perfect! Take care.

Day 45 (August 8)

Short, 10-mile day today. I started by climbing Barren Mountain, Fourth Mountain, Mt. Three and a Half, Third Mountain, and finally Columbus Mountain. At 3:00 p.m., the sky unloaded again. I was five minutes from the nearest shelter, so that's where I'm at tonight. The wilderness was no small challenge today: lots of ups and downs. I had no mouse problem last night, but the guy sleeping next to me did. The mice were scampering all over his pack which he had hung on the wall. He had three individually-packed prunes the mice literally threw out. It sounded like basketballs hitting a wood floor. They don't like prunes: didn't even nibble through the wrapping. Two more days of mountains before the last 40 miles of wilderness which are completely flat but boggy. Take care.

Day 44 (August 7)

I left Monson for the 100-mile wilderness this morning. Had a great hike in beautiful weather, though it rained in the afternoon. I made 18 miles. I'm staying in a shelter again because of the rain. We'll see about the mice tonight; I've got everything hanging. The wilderness so far hasn't seemed too wild: logging roads, train tracks, but the trail is about the same as it has been. The weather is supposed to be good for several days now, so I might have hit it right to dry out the bogs that are common on the trail. Well see. Take care.

Day 43 (August 6)

I am taking a zero today before heading out into the 100-mile wilderness. Staying at the Lakeshore House B&B in Monson, Maine. Great food and beer. Monson is a dying little town, though it used to have a thriving slate rock quarrying business. There claim to fame is having provided slate for both JFK's and Jackie Onassis Kennedy's sarcophaguses. The quarries are filled with water now -- some 700 feet deep.

Beautiful Lake Hebron is right in back of the B&B I'm staying at. I plan to swim this afternoon. I bought resupplies this morning, half of which I put into a five gallon bucket for a drop at about the mid-point of the wilderness. The hostel provides this service so that you don't need to carry so much weight. They give you a treasure map with which to find your bucket when you hit a particular forest road. I know I can beat the bears, but I'm a little worried about those damn mice... Lovin' every minute. Take care.

Day 41 (August 4)

Today was a great hiking day. I left the Sterling Inn at 8:00 a.m. and was at the shelter by 4:30 p.m. The first two hours were drizzly, but when I summited Pleasant Pond Mountain, the sun came out. I dried out, had some snacks, and moved on. I'm staying in a shelter with mice and four other guys. I'm going to beat the mice tonight. Stay tuned. 

Two days from Monson and the beginning of the hundred-mile wilderness.

Day 40 (August 3)

Today I spent my first zero in Caratunk, Maine at a B&B called the Sterling Inn. Great place. I planned to dodge forecasted rain showers, but it turned out to be nice. I got several articles written, which was good. Heading north to Monson in the morning which should take three days. The hundred-mile wilderness begins at Monson which is the penultimate challenge in Maine. Katahdin follows. Take care.

Day 39 (August 2)

Today was a short, four-mile day. I crossed the Kennebec River, the only river that requires a ferry service and one of the psychological barriers on the AT. A guy in a canoe paddles two hikers at a time across the river. A few years ago, a lady tried wading across and was swept away by a sudden rise in water caused by an upstream dam release. The AT Conservancy now hires a guy to paddle hikers across the water. I stayed in the river town of Caratuk thinking I would avoid a couple days of rain on the forecast. Of course,  it was sunny all day. Staying tomorrow, too. My first zero! Nice B&B called the Sterling Inn. All of my hiker buddies will be one or two days ahead of me now.

Day 37 (July 31)

I left the Stratton Motel today at 7:10 a.m. and made 15.3 miles today. Climbed three good mountains, the last of the big mountains in Maine. Started with South Horn Mountain, moved on to Bigelow Mountain, and finished with Avery Peak. Myron Avery was the guy who took 

Benton MacKaye's vision for the AT and made it happen. Alas, McKaye is given all the credit when Avery did all the work! Avery had the misfortune of dying at 53, while MacKaye lived well into old age and was around whenever accolades were handed out. It was a good day of hiking -- despite being pitched into the woods by slippery roots a record of three times. I kept my shoes dry all day until I had to cross a stream to the shelter whereupon I slipped and took a plunge. Boy was I sputtering after that! The rocks were slippery because it was raining. Staying in a shelter tonight with five others. Tomorrow is an easy walk: no more mountains. Take care.

Day 36 (July 30)

Today was a short, eight-mile day. I left my stealth camp on the side of the Carrabassett River, climbed South and North Crocker Mountains, and got a ride into Stratton, Maine to resupply, do laundry, and eat real food: beer, chocolate shakes, and pizza. Had a shower and am sleeping in a real bed tonight sans the mosquitoes -- who are largely off digesting 50% of me anyway. I'm running into a number of SOBOs (south-bounders) now. Man am I glad I don't have to do what they have to do, i.e. get through the Whites! Hope to get a 7:00 a.m. start heading north tomorrow. Take care.

Day 35 (July 29)

The rain of last night quit by morning, but it was pretty cold -- in the 50s. A mouse chewed the bite valve on my camelback water bladder during the night. Guess the critter didn't want to filter any rain water. Weather straightened out about 11:00 a.m. Went about 13 miles. Climbed Lone Mt., Spaulding Mt., and Sugarloaf Mt. The last one, Sugarloaf, had a tough downhill -- very steep and rocky. Had to ford two rivers (Orbeton and Carrabassett) today as well. Fun. Tenting again tonight by the Carrabassett. Nice sound. Short day tomorrow. Going in to resupply at Stratton, Maine. Take care.

Day 34 (July 28)

 Last night's stay at the Hiker Hut outside of Rangeley, Maine was the best hostel stay I have had yet. Kathy and Steve run the hut. It is off the grid and has no electricity or cell service, and yet it has a comfortable bunkhouse, porch, adjoining kitchen, and a surrounding plethora of garden flowers. Truly aesthetics of the 60s. Kathy made us a fantastic supper on an old gas stove (three courses!). Steve, a former world class tri-athelete of the 80s, got a camp fire going. It was magical.

I left this morning at 8:00 a.m., and by nine it was raining/pouring again. I walked in the rain for six hours and got to a shelter about 3:30 p.m. Five guys were hold up there, trying to dry out. We are all still here in our sleeping bags, trying to stay warm and waiting out the weather. I was still able to climb a couple of Maine's bigger mountains: Saddle Back, The Horn, and Saddle Back Junior. A bit trecherous in the rain. The trail was a torrent of flood water -- quite absurd. I made it to the shelter, though, and dried out.

Day 33 (July 27)

Today was a short hike: only nine miles. I got an early 5:30 a.m. start. All the French high school girls were still sleeping, and I didn't want to compete for privy privileges. At nine miles, it was looking like rain, and I was close to a hostel, so I decided to get a bunk. Good thing. Pouring now. I am dry, enjoying pizza and beer in Rangely, Maine. Beautiful area with big lakes and,of course, mountains. Up Saddleback Mountain tomorrow.

Day 32 (July 26)

I spent last evening at Pine Ellis hiker hostel in Andover, Maine. The place was full. About six hikers were sitting on the porch enjoying a few beers when a guy doing a documentary on the AT showed up. He videoed and interviewed a few hikers. People got a bit excited. The guy didn't think to interview Ilene Trainor, the owner of the place for the past 25 years. She was on the porch reading her book. Never said a word. 

I did 17 miles today. Covered Old Blue Mountain and Bemis Mountain. Smoked my head coming up Bemis: I was struggling with an uphill, looking down at my feet, and bam! I'm on my back, hat off. My sticks went flying. Felt like a turtle trying to right itself. I hit a wind fall tree about head high across the trail. Just didn't see it with the effort of climbing. I think I was out for a second, but I rallied with some passionate adjectives, so I still have some mental function. Staying at Sabbath Day Pond Shelter tonight. Beautiful lake here. The place is full of high school girls, all of whom are speaking French. Pretty cool. It was a gorgeous day of hiking! Take care.