Day 96 (September 28)

We had a delightful, 17 mile hike today, still continuing along the AT in Shenandoah National Park. There are supposed to be bears in abundance in the area. A park ranger armed with a shotgun and rubber bullets for hazing a recalcitrant back into the wilds said the bears spend all day up in the trees eating acorns. I believe it. It has been a proliferous acorn year. They have been raining down on us since Pennsylvania. I haven't seen a bear since Massachusetts, though. 

Here's an old guy that looks and smells like a bear. Take care.

Day 95 (September 27)

Hit another record today: 25 miles. Not easy miles either, but some beautiful vistas from mountain tops in the Shenandoah park. Lots of deer, too. They are so used to being left in peace that they don't move. You can be ten feet away. We finished today at a place in the park called Big Meadows. Got a coin operated shower and dinner in their lodge, then headed to find a stealth camp site in the dark. Not a good idea, but the meal was great! Still beautiful September weather in the 70s and sunny. Lots of day hikers today. They are often interested in the journey. Take care.

Day 94 (September 26)

We left the motel in Front Royal, PA at 6:40 a.m. and walked a half mile to where we could hitch a ride back to the trail. The second car by stopped. Amazing: the driver took us right to the trail head and we were hiking by 7:20 a.m. We entered the Shenandoah National Park about three miles into the hike. You have to register before entering. The AT runs for 110 miles through the park. It is very beautiful and well maintained, especially the trails. Spectacular vistas similar to New Hampshire and Maine, but not as tough to get to. We made 22 miles today and are stealth camping along the trail tonight. Take care.

Day 93 (September 25)

Today marks three months on the AT. What a privilege it has been: so many wonderful American people and places. We slept in a trail shelter last night. Zest, my hiking partner, actually set up his tent inside the shelter in order to stay mouse free. I didn't have any trouble just sleeping on my pad. It rained all night and this morning during our 11 mile hike to Front Royal, VA. We got a hitch from a lady in a Subaru. I'm always impressed by these people who pick us up, even when they have no room in their vehicles. This backseat had my chin on my knees. Crazy. People are wonderful creatures. Take care.

Day 92 (September 24)

Had a nice hike from the Bears Den Hostel today. It was fun to enjoy a little camaraderie with fellow hikers. Pretty uneventful day. We went 22 miles and are staying in a shelter tonight since it is raining outside. We hope to hike ten miles tomorrow and hitch a ride into Front Royal, VA for resupply and town food. Hoping the rain moves out during the night. Take care.

Day 91 (September 23)

Today was an exquisite day for hiking. We left Harper's Ferry in the late morning, yet still made 18 miles and moved into Virginia. The AT in West Virginia is only 18 miles long. Our hiking speed seems to be largely impacted by the lower temperatures and humidity; it has been a beautiful September along the trail. 

 We are staying at the Bear's Den Hostel tonight. Bunk, shower and towel, pizza, soda, Ben & Jerry's ice cream, laundry, and self-serve pancakes in the morning -- all for $30.00. The place is an old stone lodge just off of the trail. It's a super deal and fit our hiking distance for today. Continuing the quest tomorrow. Take care.

Day 90 (September 22)

Potomac River

AT Headquarters

Wow, we were speedy today! We left camp at 6:30 a.m. and made a 20 mile hike to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia by 1:30 p.m. The temperature -- low 60s -- helped. It was also quite flat. The five miles leaving Maryland and leading to West Virginia were on the old C&O canal which led from Washington and was supposed to lead to the Ohio river. However, the railroad, which started at the same time, won out and the mule pull trail that we walked on fell out of use. It's now a bike path. Lots of history at Harpers Ferry which is located at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. The national office for the AT Conservancy is located at Harpers Ferry, too. We stopped in and had our picture taken for the 2014 scrapbook. Great Folks. On to Virginia tomorrow. Only four states to go. Take care.

Day 89 (September 21)

We did another 21 mile hike today, so we've now done four 20-plus mile days. We have another scheduled for tomorrow which will leave us in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is in Harpers Ferry, so thru-hikers stop in to get a number. If I make it to Springer Mountain, Georgia, I will be published in their annual publication. I hope I make it; so far so good. We are staying in Dahlgren Backpack Campground tonight. They have free showers and tenting. 

Maryland has been an easy hike: plenty of flat trails and not too difficult to make miles. We went by the first George Washington monument today. It's at the top of a hill and was built in 1832. Apparently, the good folks from Maryland were the first to recognize his stature as a great American. Quite a view of the surrounding countryside.

Day 88 (September 20)

A View from Near the Mason-Dixon Line

Hiking went well today -- except for a full body block fall into a tree compliments of a gremlin rock. Abrasions and adult-rated language. We made 21 miles, so it's been three plus 20s in a row. We're going for four tomorrow. We are also three miles into Maryland! So long Rocksylvania. We crossed the Mason-Dixon Line. 

Zest got hungry today, which necessitated a hitch into a town. We couldn't get one, so started walking the mile and a half with our thumbs out on an extremely busy road. A guy slams his brakes, jackknifes his RX7, and invites us in. Zest climbs in the jumper back seat, fated to never quite sit, and I jump in the front. The guy's got Lyle Lovett playing on high. I couldn't believe it. He turned out to be a retired IBM employee. It's just plain nuts some days, but absolutely always good. 

Day 87 (September 19)

We had a cool day for hiking when we started out from our stealth camp. We began hiking at 6:20 a.m. and got going in the dark. Made another 24 miles! And we passed the half way point today. 

We are stealth camping near a highway tonight. We decided to hitch a ride to a cafe after we set up our tents. Got picked up, and our ride took us to a church where they fed us big time for free, then to a convenience store to resupply, then back to our stealth camp. Trail angels and trail magic. It happens over and over. Its a great land, filled with generosity! Take care.

Day 86 (September 18)

Did 22 miles on a beautiful, sunny, low humidity, light wind day today. And it's supposed to be that way for the next five days. We want to try to put in four 20+ days in a row. 

 You may have heard of the guy in PA who shot the two patrolman. He is supposed to be in an area we went through four or five days ago. We'e been hearing helicopters for the past couple of days, and we assume they are searching for the guy. He is armed and extremely dangerous. It's clear he couldn't be moving too fast in these PA rocks. They'll catch him in a few days when his shoes wear out. 

We came through Boiling Springs, PA today where there is an AT Regional office. Real nice folks and a beautifully quaint town. Take care.

Day 85 (September 17)

Super day of hiking today. After 150 miles of rocks, we broke into decent trail conditions. We left the Doyle and Duncannan, PA at 7:00 a.m. We made it a 17 mile hike. It included some field walking, board walks, and several nice walking bridges on the route. We are staying in Carlise, PA tonight then hope to complete four 20+ days that will take us past the AT midpoint, into Maryland, and allow us to arrive in Harpers Ferry, WV on Monday. Take care.

Below: A field walk in southern PA; raised boardwalk along a river; another vista; and above the clouds on our first climb of the morning up from Duncannan, PA. 

Day 84 (September 16)

It was a wonderful day on the AT! We hiked in cool weather, and we are supposed to be done with Pennsylvania rocks! Yahooo! My new shoes took a beating in the first 140 miles of the state; we have about 80 to go. We are staying at the (for thru-hikers) famous Doyle Hotel. Doyle stands for "dive" "dump" and finally "delightful." There were four women section hikers who came in after us, but left -- not good enough for them. Perfect for Zest and me. We won't have to put the toilet seat down on the shared bathroom. The place was built in 1804, withstood several floods from the Susquehanna River, and has become fabric in the thru-hiking culture. Lovin' it. Take care.

The Doyle

Me on the Susquehanna River

Day 83 (September 15)

Had a record hike today: 24 miles. Not bad for two guys who got the AARP discount at the motel the night before. We started late, too, because we couldn't get a hitch. Had to call a cab, but it was only $10. Perfect weather today; it hovered around 70 degrees with sunshine. It's amazing how much more efficient you are in cooler/low humidity temps. 

This is one of the best shelters I've seen on the AT. It's two story and we are the only ones here tonight.

Day 82 (September 14)

Zest and I Piling it On

After a rainy Saturday, today was a glorious, sunny hike of 11 miles. We are in a motel again tonight after hitching a ride into town. We are planning a 24 mile hike tomorrow -- record distance. It has become a bit less rocky, so hiking is going well. We passed one thousand miles today. Take care.

Day 81 (September 13)

It was supposed to rain in the afternoon today, so we got an early 6:20 a.m. start. It started raining at 8:00 a.m. We got a shuttle into Pine Grove, PA at the first crossroad we came to and are comfortably holed up in a Comfort Inn. It's nice to give the feet and ankles a rest from the rocks. We hope to make Maryland by next Saturday -- pretty aggressive, but past the rocks. Take care.

Day 80 (September 12)

It was a sunny, cool day on the AT today. Zest and I made 18 miles plus another three miles walking to a gas station to get breakfast. Love that town food. Pennsylvania rocks are quite the challenge. It's hard to explain their difficulty but it is extraordinary... Something like a horizontal mountain. We get out of them, word has it, at Duncannan, PA which we hit next Tuesday. It's supposed to rain tomorrow so we have a short hike planned, a nero in the town of Pine Grove. It will be nice to get cleaned up. Take care.

Day 79 (September 11 -- Happy Birthday Anne!)

Had another nice hike in PA today --18 miles through lots of rocks to Port Clinton, PA. We left our stealth camp at 6:30 a.m. You can barely see that early now. Water has been scarce, so you end up carrying a lot which adds to pack weight...not good. Tonight, we are staying in a park pavilion in Port Clinton cared for by a local church. Nice to have a roof over our heads in case it rains. They also have a pump for water and picnic tables for relaxation. We are 70 miles into PA. Take care.

Day 78 (September 10)

Zest and I left jail around 6:00 a.m. How strange to have the run of the jail and municipal building! But we did, and it was novel. Brenda shuttled us to the trail head outside of town for $6.00, money well spent. It was a rocky, 23-mile hike. Pennsylvania has certainly lived up to its nickname of "Rocksylvania." We will have a couple more days of it before breaking out into farm ground in southern PA. We are stealth camping tonight. Pasta and salmon -- yum. Take care.

A View from Knifes Edge, a Point On Today's Trail Section.

Day 77 (September 9)

Another short hike (11 miles) on a beautiful day. Today, Zest and I left our stealth camp and traveled across the Palmerton Zinc Superfund Site and down its mountain into Palmerton, PA. The Superfund Site is a deforested area that was killed by acid rain, a by-product of the zinc smelting process that occurred in this area for 70 years before the EPA cried foul. One wonders how the people survived. The hillsides are still barren of any large tree growth, but the American Chestnut almost made extinct in all eastern forests by the '50s is making a comeback on these hillsides. 

Palmerton itself has been an awesome stop. A guy bought our lunch for us at a diner. He and his wife were interested in our trip, and he and his sister actually met the famous Grandma Gatewood back in the early days of the AT. Grandma was one of the first thru-hikers on the AT. The grocery store gave us free apples for being thru-hikers, and at least a half dozen people on the street stopped to talk with us about the trip. Amazing to be so recognized. Finally, we are staying in the basement of the old town jail. It is set up for through hikers, complete with shower and flush toilet -- and all free. Stop in Palmerton, PA for good 'ol American hospitality. If you look a little ragety, you'll be a hero.

Day 76 (September 8)

It was a short day today -- only 11 miles. We left Wind Gap about 10:00 a.m. with a hitch out of town. We had a nice breakfast at a diner before leaving. The trail in this section of PA is very rocky and tends to tear up your shoes, yet it is flat so it doesn't seem that difficult to hike. We are headed to Palmerton where there is a hostel located in an old jail. It's sort of an iconic stop along the AT and will mean another 10 mile day tomorrow. We should be back to better mileage on Wednesday. With the beautifully dry weather, its nice to do more miles. Here is a look at Pennsylvania from the ridge we are hiking.

Day 75 (September 7)

I left Delaware Water Gap with Zest around 7:00 a.m. We climbed for about an hour and then things flattened out. The terrain became really rocky and will continue that way for about the next 60 miles. We made Wind Gap, PA about 3:30 p.m. -- good hiking time. Wind Gap is a little town in PA where the Henry rifle was developed and manufactured. We met a guy along the trail who offered to take us in to Wind Gap which is two miles off of the trail. Trail magic strikes again. Zest is looking for some help in getting his knee to feel normal again. 

It was a beautiful hiking day in the 70s with low humidity. The fall-like weather is welcome. Take care.

Day 74 (September 6)

I zeroed today with my new hiking partner, Zest, at Delaware Water Gap. We have been eating, resupplying, and buying equipment. Zest has a gimpy knee, so I hope he is ready to go tomorrow morning. I had to buy new shoes. The second pair made 600 miles. I also purchased a different hat and three pairs of socks. I will now have dry, clean socks every morning -- a luxury. The outfitter fixed my broken hiking pole at no cost. Nice. Tomorrow we charge up the mountain from the Delaware River to begin 230 miles of Pennsylvania. 

Here is a little PA culture: pulled pork sandwiches at a roadside.

Day 73 (September 5)

Today was a short one on the AT. I hiked with Zest to Delaware Water Gap, a small town just over the New Jersey/Pennsylvania border. We hit town after about 10 miles, most of which was downhill. It's nice to be in Pennsylvania and to have completed hiking seven states. I bought a new pair of shoes and three additional pairs of wool (darn tough) socks this afternoon. I sent the old shoes home along with a hat that was too hot. I am sharing a motel room with Zest. We plan to zero tomorrow since it is supposed to rain. The weather is predicted to get cooler Sunday when we will trek into Pennsylvania. Take care.

Day 72 (September 4)

Completed another 18 miles in New Jersey today; 10 miles left until I reach Pennsylvania. I'm planning on getting to the border sometime tomorrow morning. Today's hike went well. I started out with a deli sandwich, chocolate milk, donut, and coffee from a deli at a highway intersecting the trail -- love those places. I'm still hiking with "Zest," the retired gym teacher from Florida. He's fast and steady, covers a lot of ground, and takes photos of me. I've got to stick with him somehow. New Jersey was a flat ridge line for most of the way today. Lots of beautiful views. I am staying at the Mohican Outdoor Center tonight. Tenting and a shower for $15. I hope to make Delaware Water Gap, PA tomorrow, and then do a zero on Saturday because its supposed to rain. Take care.

Day 71 (September 3)

Had another awesome day on the AT today. I left Unionville city park about 6:30 a.m. I had coffee and an egg sandwich at the General Store and then headed out of town and down the trail. Met a retired gym teacher whom I hiked with. We made 23 miles. I set up a stealth camp just before a highway where a steakhouse is located. Had a great steak dinner. 

I saw this tower today from an observation platform about a couple miles away. The tower marks the point where the states of New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania touch. Pretty cool. Take care.

Day 70 (September 2)

I left my stealth camp at 6:30 a.m. this morning. My plan was to do 10 miles ending up in Unionville, NY (the trail goes along the border between NJ and NY for a few miles). The plan worked well -- except for 90 degree heat, high humidity, and bloodsucking hoards of mosquitoes. Several miles were flat, however, and I reached Unionville shortly after noon. I don't think I could have gone much farther. 

I am camping in the city park; there's a pizza place and general store with a deli within a block. I'm trying to hydrate for tomorrow's hike. 

I went across about a mile of board walk and bridges today spanning an extensive marshy area. Very pretty; must have been a ton of work and very expensive. I haven't talked to a thru-hiker all day. Take care.

Day 69 (September 1)

Greenwood Lake in New York Where I Neroed

It was a beautiful morning, and I was slow getting going. I watched scullers row through Greenwood Lake while I drank my coffee and orange juice. Pleasant. I finally headed down the trail at 9:30 a.m. and crossed into New Jersey about five miles later. New Jersey has been delightfully flat so far. I made 15 miles today. I have a short day planned for tomorrow, and I hope to stay in the Unionville, NY city park (amenities provided). Water has continued to be scarce, which means I have to carry a full bladder when possible. Heavy. Stealth camping again tonight. Take care.

Day 68 (August 31)

Today was a rainy day on the way to Georgia, but the hiking was dry and short. Only seven miles. I am holed up at a Motel on the shore of Greenwood Lake, NY, very happy to beat the rain. I did see another juvenile bear this morning along the trail, traveling in the same direction as I, but faster. I passed 800 miles yesterday. Take care.

Day 67 (August 30)

Hiked a rugged 16 miles today in southern New York. The mountains here are smaller but one right after the other. There's very little supply of water from streams, which is a bit of a problem. However, it brings out the trail angels. I experienced trail magic at three different points today. People bring water in multiple-gallon jugs; one spot had a cooler full of juices, cookies, bagels, Gatorade, and more in addition. Just unbelievable. I took a can of chile for the road. I met a number of weekend hikers today. They are always interested by thru-hikers -- makes you feel important.

Stealth camping tonight at the top of Mombasha Point. I plan to do six miles tomorrow as a nero day, stopping at Greenwood Lake, NY for a little clean up. Take care.

Day 66 (August 29)

'Twas an interesting day. I didn't leave the Graymoor Spiritual Center until 8:00 a.m. and only hiked 15 miles today. I came across a rattle snake in the middle of the trail. Watched him uncoil and snake away. I also crossed the Hudson River and toured Bear Mountain Recreational Area. Beautiful area with a zoo, swimming pool, lake, and CONCESSIONS. I climbed Bear Mountain,West Mountain, and Black Mountain from which you can see the NY City skyline. There were excellent views of the Hudson all day. It's been real fun seeing all the colonial rock wall building in the forests of MA, CT, and NY, too. The work of those folks is just amazing. Take care.