Great Divide Day 14: Wednesday, July 13, 2016

We had a leisurely start from Elkhorn Hot Springs. We enjoyed a buffet breakfast before continuing our downhill plunge through a beautiful, wide valley rimmed by the Pioneer Mountain range. It was an epic morning with light tail wind, sunshine, and continuous downhill grade. The valley is huge and one continuous vista with streams and horse/cattle operations. 

We arrived at our final destination, Bannack State Park, in about 2 hours (25 miles). Bannack is an abandoned gold mining town with a colorful history beginning in 1862. Lots of vigilante justice, hangings, prostitution, but minimal gold. We stripped our bikes of travel bags anticipating Kay's arrival to pack us home. Anna went for a last trail ride around Bannack Hills sans all luggage. Makes one much more nimble in avoiding those phantom highwaymen. I washed clothes in the gold stream hoping to leave some of the odor unique to biking behind.

The Great Divide biking adventure will continue next summer with exploration of Idaho and Wyoming. Thanks for your interest. Take care. 

Great Divide Day 13: Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Our camp along the Big Horn River was excellent! Got an early 7:00 a.m. start toward the town of Wise River. Ten miles of travel along the beautiful Big Horn. Guys were already fly fishing in the middle of the river despite the cold -- highs in the 30s. Had a powerful breakfast in Wise River served up by the proprietor who had emigrated from Scotland in 1967, married the "love of his life," and established a bar restaurant and motel (all one building) in Wise River. Meeting folks along the route has been a tremendous experience. The afternoon ride was along State Highway 43 and included more beautiful trout streams: Bolder Creek, Cold Creek, Little Joe. 

We planned to stay at a place 30 miles up the highway, but couldn't find it. This required riding more miles which can usually be mentally adapted to, but of course it began to rain and blow. Fortunately, we had a long downhill. The rain was cold and hard, but the wind was flat dangerous -- nearly blew us off the bikes. Found our next option for lodging at Elkhorn Hot Springs. A half mile off route, on gravel, and in a cold down pour, we rode up to this restaurant/bar affair. Got a $55 room above the bar, complete with free breakfast in the morning and a trip to the natural hot springs swimming pool!! Wow! Was it nice. One hundred degree water. Our luck on this adventure has been supernatural. Had a great meal at the bar which closes at 8:00 p.m. but has an honor system which allows guests to get a beer from behind the bar after hours. You simply write your name on a bar tab and settle up in the morning. Western Montana! 

Kay picks us up in Bannack State Park tomorrow 24 miles down the road. We will finish the Montana section of the Great Divide trail, alleged to be the most difficult section. What a trip! An awesome piece of America. We did 43 miles today -- cold, rainy, but spectacular beauty and wonderful people. Take care.

Great Divide Day 12: Monday, July 11, 2016

 

We had an inauspicious start today. Hung out at the Super 8 until 11:00 a.m. because of 38 degree temps and drizzle. Things improved along the route, however, but not until after missing a turn and pounding out a couple of acute uphill miles in traffic and no shoulder. Attitude. We had a spectacular remainder of the day. There were lots of mountain views, and we crossed the Continental Divide the fourth time -- nice, 6-mile downhill on that. Tonight we are camping along the Big Hole River not far from Wise River, MT where we plan to have breakfast at the end of a 10-mile morning ride tomorrow. We met several Great Divide riders today: one from Japan who took our picture and another couple from England. Each day of this adventure has been rich. The Montana landscape is simply magnificent. We covered 42 miles today -- respectable. Take care.

Great Divide Day 11: Sunday, July 10, 2016

Rain today as we awoke at Merry Widow campground outside Basin, MT. Not fun. We packed up wet and found shelter in the camp's laundry room. Psyching up for a 30-mile rain slog in a laundry room is difficult. But at a pause in showers, we headed out. Not a bad route: 12 miles of gravel split by an interesting quarter-mile mountain tunnel. Scary! But only an occasional ceiling drip. Butte, MT was our final destination.  And the rain held off until the Continental Divide outside town. Then the heavens opened, and we were washed down the screaming five interstate miles into Butte. Adding to the challenge was a 30 mph wind that wanted to sail us into traffic. "Them bikes" is stout, though, and delivered us soaked and more reverent to the Super 8 motel. Kyle and Maggie Jelly drove up from Belgrade and joined us for dinner and conversation in the evening. Tomorrow looks rainy again, but we are well fed, smell better, and are rested. Lookin' for that hand of blue in Big Sky Country. Bike on! 

Great Divide Day 10: Saturday, July 9, 2016

Denise, Bob Goodwin's mom, made us a scrumptious breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon over greens this morning. We powered out of Helena. Not sure why one would leave. The cut is "Oz like" in beauty. Captivating. In a 6-mile downhiller, we passed through some of the most beautiful country I've seen in North America. Magic! Ate lunch in Clancy, MT. Thirty hard surface road miles later we set up our tents at the Merry Widow Mine Campground just outside Basin, MT. Imagine the twilight zone... An obsolete mining town morphing into a healing spa in which people from around the world are cured of any malady upon bathing in, or drinking, the mine's year ice waters -- or simply sitting in the mine. We filled our bottles. Must work -- Anna got carded at the town bar and I was able to ride my bicycle home after an evening at the pub. Life is restorative on the Great Divide Bicycle trail. Pedal on!!

Great Divide Day 9: Friday, July 8, 2016

Waking up after a restful night in Barbara Nyes hostel, we made pancakes and coffee. Rob from Texas headed north. Anna and I said farewell to the llamas and continued south, headed to Helena. Our first climb of the day crossed the Continental Divide. It was a gradual ascent until the final 4 miles. At that point, it became a burner, and we lost the trail -- not hard to do. Only went about a mile out of the way.  Anna's GPS skills got us back on track for the day's second Continental Divide ascent: Priest Pass. It wasn't too tough. The downhill into Helena lasted for about 15 miles. Steep. We are staying with Bob Goodwin, Charlie and Anna's friend. Tomorrow we must decide on which route to continue. The main route is the toughest of the entire 2,700-mile Great Divide trail! And it is supposed to rain. Bob''s Mom and Dad are in Helena for the weekend, and Mrs. Goodwin is fortifying us with a terrific supper of Stuffed green peppers -- with Elk no less. The mountains will become plains with all those Elk nutrients.

Great Divide Day 8: Thursday, July 7, 2016

We got a great 8:15 a.m. start from Ovando. A 25-mile road ride found us in Lincon, MT -- and the start of an eight mile uphill to the Continental Divide. Two miles into the uphill, a guy on an ATV hauling a cooler gave us cold beers. I offered a lifetime of daily prayer in return. Laughter. Angels in high places. We had another terrific 8-mile downhill to a free mountain valley hostel -- Barbara Nyes cabin. The place is fantastic! A cabin supplied to the max for Great Divide bikers.  Wine -- white and red -- for consumption. And the owners stopped by with cold beer and conversation. All free. Unbelievable. Anna and I stayed with Rob, another teacher from Texas who is north bound. The place was complete with friendly Llamas. The beauty and experience of today's route was sublime.

Great Divide Day 7: Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Had a nice breakfast at the Chicken Coop in Seely Lake where we spent a restful night at the Motor Lodge. We we're slow starting because of rain. Headed out around 11:00 a.m. for the little town of Ovando, MT, 28 miles away. We called ahead and reserved the "Hoosegow" because of forecasted rain. The first 10 miles was a climb, then a nice downhill. We met a man and woman from Switzerland riding dirt bikes (650cc Suzukis) across Canada and the U.S. They were 3 months out. The downhill was in 50 degree weather and rain. Cold in a t-shirt! Had to cut the conversation with the Swiss short due to hypothermia. The last mile into Ovando was sunny. Beautiful, open cow country. Even saw a bluebird. Ovando has a terrific bar, and the jail (where we stayed) has nice rope bunks and solid iron locks on the door. Eclectic -- perfect to warm you and dry out. 

Great Divide Day 6: Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Got started at 8:15 a.m. today after a hot meal of oatmeal. The trail was a roller coaster for the first 10 miles. At 18 miles, we went off-route to Holland Lake Lodge at 10:30 a.m. and had a terrific breakfast. It fortified us for the 12-mile uphill from the Lodge. Tough, but scenic. Grizzly bear scat all along the the trial (2" diameter). We whistled up the trail to forewarn the Bears. They all ran away -- didn't see any, though our cans of bear spray are carried on bike handle bars like scepters. Scary though. Did about 4 miles of single track on our 15 mile downhill to Sealy, MT where we got a motel room, "real food," and washed clothes in the shower.  Anna, who has spent many days in these here mountains, said, "it may have been her best."  I didn't see as much -- a lynx or bobcat and remote mountains and forests. My eyes stuck on the trail. But that 15-mile downhill at 15-20 mph was glorious!

Great Divide Day 5: Monday, July 4, 2016

We left Ferdale at 8:15 a.m. The first 4 miles were flat, but then we had an 8-mile uphill. Tough. Some good views though, and the downhill was longer -- a sour 10 miles. Anna disappears from me on downhills, often making videos as she rides. Tough for me to make movies with both hands on the breakers. The rest of today's route was a roller coaster. We ended with about 55 miles. Weather was perfect. Met another northbound rider from North Carolina who has been out for 37 days. We are tenting tonight. Hung out food in a tree to challenge the Bears. Bikes are working well, and the weather has been delightful.

Great Divide Day 4: Sunday, July 3, 2016

A map of our route

We left Bryce's apartment just before 8:00 a.m. Bicycled to the Buffalo Cafe in downtown Whitefish. There was a line at the door when it opened at 8:00 a.m. After a delicious breakfast, I continued my journey south. Anna took a zero to visit with Montana friends. The ride was mostly "flat" through the Flathead Valley. Lots of beautiful acreages and horse farms. The valley is surrounded by mountains. I saw deer and wild turkey with their pullets. We stayed with another friend of Anna's, Sam and her husband Mark, who live on an acreage just outside Ferndale, MT. Mark has a dog sled and river rafting business. Saw his 17 sled dogs -- quite an operation. We tented in their yard. It was another beautiful day. 

43 miles 

Great Divide Day 3: Saturday, July 2, 2016

Another bluebird day.

We left Polebridge at 7:45. A good start. Did 17 miles uphill in the morning. Had to walk the bike in a few places. Crossing the Divide at Red Meadow Lake. We went screaming down the other side, Anna leading the way and me on my brakes. Did about 23 miles into Whitefish, MT. We were able to get the bike shop to lube and adjust the bikes, then met Anna B. and her friend, Bryce, at his apartment. Had ice cream downtown and slept on the floor of Bryce's apartment for our third night on the trail. Felt good to take a shower. My t-shirt had all sorts of dried salt designs from a day of uphill sweating and downhill drying out. The Great Divide Trail to Whitefish is spectacular!

Great Divide Day 2: Friday, July 1, 2016

Beautiful weather.

Crawled out of the tent around 7:30 a.m. Anna was up and ready for breakfast. Cooked oatmeal and coffee on the camp stove. Our fellow bikers had packed and hit the trail without a sound. Traveling early morning in Grizzly areas is not advised, but the trail calls. We started the day with a mile downhill. Beautiful mountain vistas. Another 16 miles of gravel got us to the tiny village of Polebridge, MT by noon. The Polebridge General Store makes fantastic pastries. People were lined up to purchase. We stayed at a hostel in Polebridge. Had a nice clean up in the river and did a little writing and relaxing. Met a foursome thru-hiking the Pacific North Trail. Had a nice visit. All had hiked the AT and CDT. The hostel a Polebridge was absolutely charming. It was run by Oliver, a 60s generation guy. The whole community is off-grid. Anna and I listened to a two-piece band: guy on guitar/banjo accompanied by a guy playing a one-string wash tub. Anna's friends, Sam and Pete, drove up for the evening.

Great Divide Day 1: Thursday, June 30, 2016

Beautiful weather.

Matt and Kathy Valen, along with grandson Croix, dropped Anna V. and me off at the Roosville, MT point of entry into Canada. We headed back south to Eureka, MT, 10 miles away. The initial 25 miles of the Great Divide trail in Montana is hard surface road. Traveling was easy and mostly flat.  Somewhere around 30 miles, we started our ascent through Whitefish Pass. Constant uphill for about 7 miles, and the road/trail turned to gravel. Eventually the road morphed into rocks, a good test for our "rock shock" front bicycle forks. I am riding a Salsa Fargo and Anna V. is on a Specialized. The final four miles of the day was a blessed downhill. I was shot; Anna buoyant. We stayed at Yumchuk campground. Two other GD bikers were camping as well. They were worried about the recent Grizzly attack in the area that killed a biker. We all have bear spray just in case. We had a hot meal of Chicken Alfredo with tuna, took a cold clean up in the mountain stream, and called it a day. 

42 miles.

New Adventures: Great Divide Bicycle Trip

My daughter-in-law, Anna V., and I are riding the Montana section of the Great Divide Bicycle trail. The Montana section is about 550 miles; the entire trail is about 2,700 miles. It starts in Banff, Canada and ends on the Mexican border. The Montana section I one of the more difficult sections, crossing the Continental Divide six times.