Thursday June 15; Day nineteen; 30 miles; 33-80 degrees

Woke to a brisk morning- in the 30s.  We camped in view of snow @ nine thousand feet elevation. Close to Colorado, but still in New Mexico.  Short on food, out of camp stove gas.  Anna tried soaking pasta alfredo overnight to eat for breakfast. Yuk! We packed and headed out. Saw several elk in velvet. Beautiful, cold, mountain morning. Hands freezing, nose a faucet, sloppy eyes. Climbed higher. Real heart banger. Stunning views among the tears. Brazos Ridge @ 11000 feet.  Rolled over several snow drifts, still firm in the early hours. Splendid day. Made Colorado with a screaming 5 mile downhill on pavement into Horca Colorado along the Conjeos River-no services. I had a half dozen pitted prunes left at the end with another 40 mile day ahead.  Called for help. Anna's relatives from Monta Vista, a town ninety minutes away, came to our rescue. Charles and Margaret Stillings took us in.  We spent a day at their ranch.  Decided we would save the next section (Colorado) of the Great Divide Mountain Bike ride for next year. We have Colorado, Wyoming, and 200 miles of Canada to do, having accomplished rides across Montana and New Mexico, arguably the toughest of the 5 stars that make up the route. Thanks for your interest. Bike on!

Weds. June 14; Day 18; 40 miles; 80

Had a nice 5 mile downhill on pavement to begin the day.  The rest of the day was up and down mountains in that nine-10 thousand foot elevation range. Gasp, gasp, gassed! We were able to get water from rivers and streams, but our food is short.  Several former resupply sources on the route have closed. We did not check current upgrades to the map. Bad bikers. It will be a trick to find enough calories to make it to our next resupply. We travelled some beautiful landscape today- prime forest, vast open hillside fields, snow still in swales and north slopes, elk, bulls in velvet, mountain backdrop. Spiritual, connected, grateful. Take care.   

Tues. June 13; day 17; 42 miles; 80s temp

An early start from El Rito- climbing/pushing bikes much of the day.  No services- we stopped in Valacitos for water at the library-the only viable structure in town.  The host was reluctant to offer water, but did.  Dogs chased us out of town- an uphill exit.  A forest fire required we take a detour.  Another big up. Nick,the first of the northbound racers caught us at the top of the detour. Our 17th day, his 5th. Great guy and strong 38 year-old biker We came right next to the backfire built by firefighters. Smokey, causing Anna to feel nauseous.  Camped for the night at Hopewell Lake.  A couple from Albuquerque gave us water at the camp. Tough day.

Mon. June 12, day 16 15 miles; 80s

Got a slow start today by design.  Anna's new tire was being held at the El Rito post office 15 miles from Albiguiu, so we had breakfast on Wanda, proprietor of the B&B.  Such a wonderful lace to stay on the banks of the Chama river.  Heard beaver plopping in the river during the night- prolific in the area. They are nocturnal and had a beautiful moon to work by.  We are tenting tonight in El Rito on the grounds of an abandon college.  The place last saw classes two years ago. Looks new.  Tragic. Hoping for an early start in the morning.  Anna is euphoric about her new tire.  A miracle she made it 200 miles over rough terrain on that

Sun; June 11; Day 15; 43miles; 80s

What a day! Started pushing bikes up mountain @ 7:00.  Low on water, but at mile two an elk prospect/hunter gave us a gallon of ice water- Trail Angel.  At noon we had gone 15 miles.  But then we entered some downhill.  Very rocky; sandy; and full of ruts.  A significant challenge just to go downhill.  Indeed, both Anna and I had wrecks.  Anna hit some sand that threw her off, but with a 2 foot landing while her bike did a 360 in the air.  Big Smile.  Our final 90 minutes of riding on the day took us on a 15 mile down hill into the tiny 18 th century Spanish settlement of Abiquiu, home to 20th century artist Georgia O Keefe.  We are tenting at a delightful B&B along the Chama river.  The Chama flows into the Rio Grande. Proof positive that NM has a river.  

Sat June 10 Day 14; 40 miles

We left Cuba at 6:30.  The first 10 miles was uphill on asphalt.  We left early to get the cool temps. It worked well.  At 10 miles the road changed to gravel.  The rest of the day was up and down elevation between 8-nine thousand feet.  It was tough, but we took our time.  Having to walk the bikes often. We are in pine forests now- beautiful and cooler than desert of the past two weeks. Water is a problem still.  There are few streams in NM. Hoping to reach Abiquiu tomorrow, another 40 mile pedal at elevation.

Fri. June Nine Day 13 48 miles; 80s

We left our chain-link compound @ 7:30 this morning headed for Cuba.  A beautiful, light tail wind morning.  The highway was rolling with light traffic until 20 miles outside Cuba where traffic doubled, rockets in each direction.  We rolled into Cuba @ 1:00-good time for us.  We are staying in a Mom & Pop motel.  Feels amazing to shower off two days of salt and road grime, and to relax during the heat of the day. A CDT thru-hiker is staying here too.  Old guy who has done the PCT which he admitted was a piece of cake compared to his experience so far on the CDT.  He must carry 6 liters of water. We will leave early to tackle "perhaps" the toughest climbing section yet. Take care.

This. June 8; Day 12; 67 miles; Mid 80s; wind

Got out of Grants @ 6:30.  Anna's tire repair seems to be holding.  A pipeline contractor checking in when we go to the motel gave Anna a special pipeline adhesive that bods anything.  It's called the greenie weenie. Should be good.  We went through some desolate country today; challenged an oblique wind; and nearly perished from thirst.  Got water at a Navaho Community store and laundromat in no-where's-ville that everyone comes to.  The proprietor has allowed us to camp within the gated confines.  We can't get out until 7:00 tomorrow morning when he unlocks.  We need to tame his guard dogs for best sleeping. Stay tuned. 

Weds. June 7; Day 11; 45 miles; Mid 80s; light wind.

We got a great start this morning, leaving at 6:15.  A beautiful ride on smooth asphalt.  We followed route 117 through El Malpais National Monument. Beautiful cliff formations; ancient lava flow rock formations as well.  We ended in Grants, a city of boom and bust.  They have been the uranium capital of the world as well as the carrot capital of the world.  The famous Route 66 goes through town. Sadly all the old motels are shuttered. We arrived in town at noon; stopped to resupply at the Walmart, then went to an RV park to wash clothes and take a shower.  We tried to leave town in the cool of the evening, but Anna blew a tire heading out of town.  Fortunately, we only had a half mile to a Mom & Pop motel where we made repairs (avoided some rain storms

Tuesday June 6; Day 10; 28 mile

We had a relaxing day in Pie Town. Mailed some maps home. Ate breakfast and dinner at the Pie Town cafe (great burritos with green Chilean), and left town for a 28 mile evening ride in cool temperatures. Saw Antelope and huge elk. Gravel roads were tough. The sand stopped us at one spot. Set up camp in a rain squall, wind blowing and totally exposed on the open range. Went to sleep with a few dozen red ants for company. 

Monday June 5, Zero in Pie Town; Day nine

Sunday June 4; day 8 80s; light wind; 61 miles

We got on the trail about 7:00 a.m.  Beautiful cruiser ride on gravel skirting The Plains of St. Augustine-a wide open expanse of prairie surrounded by low mountains.  Three elk ran across the plain and crossed the road a hundred yards ahead of us.  They stopped to look before heading into the hills.  We came out of the plains by a church having Sunday services.  We filled up with water and travelled on.  Did some big wearing climbs.  Stopped and ate lunch about 2:00.  Pushed on in the heat of the day.  Smoky from wildfires.  New Mexico had several hundred lightning strikes during recent rains.  The tops of pines hit by lightning will smolder until after the rain drys, then take off in wild fires.  We were trying to make Pie Town today, a 61 mile ride.  It got long, but we made it and are staying at the Toaster hostel.  Neeta, the host, has accommodated hikers and bikers for the past 25 years.  We were able to shower, eat real food, and build enthusiasm for the next leg of the journey. 

Pics for Day 6

May 31, Wednesday, day 4, light wind; low 80s

We climbed out of Silver City about 11:30.  Had an excellent stay at the Palace Hotel.  Met  a young retired couple from Utah walking the CDT. They needed to carry gallons of water to make it from the border. And they had predropped stashes along the route. Intrepid. Mailed some items home before leaving town.  Hard psychologically hauling long underwear and a fleece with temps in the high 80s.  I'll need it in Colorado, but that's a few weeks and several  hundred bike miles. The route today was tough. We did have one redeeming  mile down late afternoon.  Today's section went through part of the gorgeous Gil's National Wilderness, home of the ancient cliff dwellers.  Lots of beautiful pine forest, a nice change from the desert. Rain chased us into a campground around 5:00.  Another short day. I was shot. Still getting into shape. Lots of granny gearing today and frequent road-side breathers.  Usually just collapse on my bike handle bars, too weary to get off the bike. Met a guy from Athens Georgia sagging for his son and two college buddies doing the GDT. One kid graduated from Anna's HS in Athens. Ain't that America!

Sat. June 3 Day 7; 41 miles; Lowe 80s & light wind.

Left Beaverhead at 8:00. Nice ride for the first 10 miles.  Then we hit mud.  About 3 miles of pushing and slogging.  Finally hit high ground and had a cruise for 25 miles. Saw 8 elk. Beautiful escaping on the run across an open hillside. They even stopped once to look at us.  Water is scarce.  Had to get water out of a cattle tank.  Sighs said "Don't drink the Water." We purified. Drank.  Met a father/son combination from Arizona riding the trail. Retired teacher on a bucket list.  Son was riding the first 2 weeks.  Good riders on expensive bikes. Staying in a beautiful canyon, still in the Gila Wilderness Area.  Hope to make Pie Town tomorrow with some hard riding. Take care. 

Day 6 25 miles

We left Black Canyon Campground in the Gila Wilderness about 8:00. Had a morning conversation with a gal from Canada doing an owl study for the forest service. She and a colleague work at night and tent at the campground.  Tents were packed a bit wet from the nightly thunderstorm.Ive never heard such loud and rolling thunder as in NM.Some real crashes each of the last four nights. And occurring as I write tonight.  The route had some good downhills today.  It was all gravel/dirt/boulders. We are staying at a forest service work camp.  Beaver head Work Center. Lots of guys ready to fight forest fires.  They gave us leftovers bag lunches and fruit to eat. Trail Magic! We are tenting outside their office with water and bathrooms available.  One crew member had iodine tablets for water purification so that dilemma is solved.Saw beautiful mule deer, Rocky Mountain blue birds, and lizards today. Our daily mileage has been meager, but we've come 200 miles through some tough stuff. The Gila is so incredible. Take care.  

Day 5

Got a 7:00 a.m. Start today. Nice 7 mile cruiser on asphalt to start.  Anna in the lead, rode along-side 4 elk for about a mile. Our challenge began when we turned onto gravel to follow the GDT route.  Took us the rest of the day to do 23 miles.  Lots of short-thigh kicking ups.  We did have a 3 mile screaming down into camp.  So steep, I had to stop three times to rest my wrists-the down-hill pressure so acute. Raining tonight.  Anna is using the neighbors water filter to get us clean drinking water for tomorrow.  I packed the wrong chemicals for my usual system. Bad Bahn! We'll make it...what's a little water on a NM bike ride?

Day 1-3 May 28th

Sunday May 28; slight north headwind; 88 degrees; 35 miles

Bern and I picked Anna V. Up at her cousins, Chance and Savahna Hoover in Albuquerque.  We left town about 11:30 headed for Antelope Springs, the border crossing with Mexico and start of the ride.  We started pedaling @ 4:30; temp 88 degrees.  Bern sagged for the first 35 miles.  We rode without packs. Nice. Lots of jackrabbits. They came out to party in the evening. Haven't seen so many at one time.  We set up tents at the side of the road at 35 miles.  Bern took off. It was a great kick-off to our 2000 mile adventure

Monday, May 2nine, Memorial Day; 15 mph SE wind; 50 miles. 88 degrees

We got a 7:30 a.m.. start after a good night of camping.  Coyotes adding the only disharmony to a quiet and star filled night.  We pedaled to a place called Separ located on Interstate 10. Border patrol pickups racing up and down an otherwise deserted desert highway.  Separ is a very active trinket stop-get your fireworks and southwest jewelry and art in one convenient stop. We got there about noon with temps in middle 80s.  Hung out until 4:00 and took off north on a gravel road. The road turns to sand in many spots making biking very tough.  We only made 15 miles because of the sand and taking our first wrong turn. Saw a havalina.  Big one! Exciting creature of the wild pig specie. Found a nice spot to camp.  Dirty Moore stew cold for sup.

May 30, Tuesday; 35 miles; light s
SE winds.  Lower 80s

Got a 7:00 A.M. Start today.  Rode along the Continental Divide for several miles.  Course it looks like desert at this point on the route.  Anna took the first spill of the trip on some of the sand road surface.  Hard to get out of those pedal clips.  The last 18 miles was hard surface road with a nice shoulder.  I wanted to go left when we came off the backroad, but Anna's GPS indicated right.  Good thing we have the technology. Eighteen miles later were in Silver City, NM. Staying in the Silver Palace, a nineteenth century hotel in the quaint downtown. Trying to get hydrated for the next 150 mile leg with few services. Staying hydrated has been a challenge.