Day 30 (July 24)

Today was a big day of hiking: sixteen miles in Maine. We started with a shuttle ride back to the trail head from the B&B ladies. Ilene at Pinecrest B&B has devloped quite a business centered around thru-hikers. She gives them the run of her house, yet everything runs smoothly. Great place to stay. 

Starting the day at Grafton Notch, I climbed Baldpate Mountain and Wyman Mountain. These were pretty tame mountains compared to what I've been doing. I am in the tent tonight at a place called Hall Mountain Lean To. I've been hiking the last two days with a retired cop from Daytona Beach, FL named Grouch. Great guy. About my age, but much faster hiker. No rain today; beautiful for hiking Maine.

Day 29 (July 23)

I left the Full Goose Shelter and Campsite this morning at 6:50 a.m. with a bit of anxiety and anticipation. Mahoosuc Notch was a mile and a half up the trail. This part of the trail runs about a mile and is basically a canyon full of boulders the Almighty threw between two moutains. It requires climbing over, through, and underneath boulders and takes about an hour to do the mile. The climbs under boulders are fun because there is ice in the tunnels. Mist rises from the openings as it meets the warmer air. Really, it is fun but takes a lot of energy and careful climbing. After the notch comes a climb known as Mahoosuc Arm, another monster mountain with rock scrambles, wooden ladder ascents, and beautiful vistas. But it's wearing.

Speck Mountain ended the day. Had a nice swim half way through that stretch at Speck Pond. Speck mountain is dangerous for south-bound hikers because of a number of straight down rock slabs. An old guy (like me) slipped and got hauled off this week. Once at the top of Speck, it is a three mile downhill. Best downhill of the trip so far. Not too many rock scrambles, but at the bottom, my legs were toast. And it started to rain! Downpour. But I caught a twenty-two mile ride into Andover, Maine where I am staying in a hostel with about a dozen other thru-hikers. I had watermelon and a great dinner and got my clothes washed -- all for fifty-nine bucks. It's still raining, but I am dry and pumped for tomorrow! Take care.

Day 28 (July 22)

Last night was spent in my tent at Gentian Pond shelter. The bull frogs croaked all night. Otherwise, it was uneventful. Todays hike took in Mt. Success, the last New Hampshire mountain before entering Maine. To get through NH is truly a success. I climbed Mt. Carlo and Goose Eye mountain range today. Beautiful vistas in Maine -- maybe the best so far. I am at Full Goose Shelter tonight, a great shelter with a tent platform! No rain forecast. Tomorrow is Mahoosuc notch, described as the most difficult (or fun) mile of the trail.

Day 27 (July 21)

I spent last night at Rattle River Shelter. The Rattle River is quite beautiful and nice to listen to. The only other guy there was from Virginia, but he had just graduated with a degree in geology from none other than South Dakota Tech. It's cheaper to go to school in SD than in Virginia. Today's hike included peaks: Mt. Hayes, Cascade Mountain, Wocket Ledge (most people love ledges; my knees wobble). It was a much easier day than yesterday, and I got twelve miles in. Tomorrow will be shorter and will include the border crossing into Maine. I am staying at Gentian Pond shelter tonight. Some thru-hiker's family donated the money for the AMC to build it. It's full of ants, though, so I am staying in my tent, listening to the bull frogs croaking in the pond. Some of these pond areas require planks to hike across... What a chore to pack them in and build the pathway. Its all volunteer effort, too.

Day 26 (July 20)

I've determined I must love rock. I sure can cling to it. The last 20 miles have been the absolute toughest of the trip so far. Straight ups and straight downs. This section is known as the Wildcat range. Just amazingly difficult, but I am on the north end of it now. Made 16 miles today with a full, six-day load of food. There are many great vistas along the Wildcat -- if you stand up to look at them. 

My stealth camp worked well last night. Tent was dry in the morning and I was only two miles out from the last of the AMC huts. Got there about 8:00 and got leftover pancakes, bacon, oatmeal, and coffee. It only rained a little bit today, so I'm a happy camper tonight. Take care.

Day 24 (July 18)

Last night we arrived at an Appalachian Mountain Club hut around 5:00, exhausted from climbing Mt. Washington, the highest mountain in New Hampshire. We were declined for "work-for-stay" because two young section hikers beat us to the hut. We still sat and had some hot coffee (it was 40 degrees outside) contemplating our options. After about 15 minutes, the two section hikers, also sitting at our table, offered to give us the work-for-stay positions. We accepted and had a wonderful meal and dry place to stay. Such altruism. Or perhaps it was having Anna along. She is trail magic! 

This morning it was three hours straight up Mount Madison. Fifty mile-per-hour winds going up until we got over the top. Dang, it can blow in the White Mountains! We hitched a ride into Gorham, New Hampshire in the late afternoon and are staying in a B&B tonight. Got a ride in less than five minutes. Jim and Kim are driving up from Massachusetts tomorrow to take Anna back. I will miss her company. Got nine miles in today; probably only about five tomorrow. The first three straight up. Take care.

Day 23 (July 17)

Today was a fantastic hike. We summitted mount Washington, the highest mountain in NH. It has the worst, most unpredictable weather in America. Quite a rock scramble up and down. We stopped at Lakes of the Clouds hut before the mile ascent to the top of Washington. The hut crew gave us free leftovers from the night before: pork loin, mashed potatoes, peas, peaches. This trip has so much benevolence built in.

Day 22 (July 16)

After an all-night rain, Anna and I decided to continue our plan of hiking ten miles to the next hut and campsite in New Hampshire's White Mountains. The day went well: walked in water much of the day; scrambled up some pretty challenging cliffs; saw some beautiful vistas; and had time to dry out our gear at tonight's campsite. We had a hot meal over the camp stove consisting of noodles, salmon, and hot chocolate. Tomorrow we hope to summit Mount Washington. We will be above the tree line for much of the day. Take care.

Day 21 (July 15)

Today marks three weeks on the trail. It was nice to stay dry in a hut last night. Anna and I, along with another thru-hiker, slept on the floor of the kitchen and did a little clean-up for our "work for stay." It really worked well. Most of the guests are retirees in their 60s, 70s, and 80s. They hike each day between huts maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club. All of the hikes are challenging, and it's good to see seniors out their making the summits. We hiked 12 miles today. Started off with a mile climb, but the last five miles were flat. Got rained on. It's supposed to rain again tonight and tomorrow. I hope we can make some progress nevertheless. Its been great having Anna for companionship. She is a great hiker and camper. Take care.

Day 19 (July 13)

Today was another challenging day in New Hampshire's White Mountains. My daughter-in-law, Anna, has joined me for a week of hiking. Last night, we only hiked three miles, but they were straight up. The last five minutes before the campsite, it poured rain. We set up in the rain, crawled into the tents, and spent a soggy night. Morning was clear, though. We hiked several peaks and covered 10 miles. We are staying in a hut tonight, a lodge operated for urbanites who escape to hike all the wonderful peaks in day hikes. We are doing work in exchange for our stay: we get to sleep and eat free and wash dishes for payment. The best thing is that it's dry. So nice to have Anna to hike with. Take care.

Day 18 (July 12)

Today was a "nearo" day, i.e. nearly a no miles day. I stayed in Woodstock, NH last night and met Jim, Kim, and Anna about noon. We had lunch and Jim and Kim dropped Anna and me off at the trail head. We made a tough, three-mile climb to a tent spot. As we reached the place, it began to rain. We set up in a cloud of rain. 

The tents are wet; it's about 4:30 and is supposed to rain all night. Spirits are good however; we are conquering the nasty White Mountains undaunted.

Day 17 (July 11)

Today was a reasonably good day of hiking in New Hampshire: difficult uphill rock scrambles over eight foot boulders, unbelievable panoramic views from mountain tops, and treacherous downhill rock scrambles. I did nine miles and then hitched a ride into Woodstock, NH to resupply and rendevouz with Anna V. She and I will hike the rest of the White Mountains together, including the famous (or infamous) Mount Washington which has the record land wind speed of 232 mph recorded on its summit.

I stayed at the Woodstock Inn and brewery last night, sharing a room with Figgy from North Carolina. Great place to stay and recoop. Figgy is hitching out this morning. Jim Corker is bringing Anna V. up from Massachusetts and should arrive around noon. We will try a three mile ascent to a camping site this afternoon. Looking forward to sharing this experience with Anna. Take care.

Figgy on Top of Mount Moosilauk

Day 16 (July 10th)

Started out today eating pancakes with maple syrup harvested on the land where we hikers were staying. The owners have over a thousand trees tapped and sell syrup throughout New Hampshire. I stayed with 5 other thru-hikers: one from Germany, another from Australia, and others from Wisconsin, Indiana, and North Carolina. Our host puts up thru-hikers every year for free -- last year over 200 stayed there. It was nice because it rained hard again in the night. Did 17 miles, including a challenging Mountain-Moosilauke. Incredible 360 views from on top. Take care.

Day 15 (July 9th)

Today started out a bit soggy from an all-night rain. Fortunately, my down bag did not get wet since, if wet, they are worthless. Nonetheless, the day was beautiful and nice hiking. Did two New Hampshire mountains today. This is the killer state. Get this one done and you are capable. I am staying at a hostel tonight where famous Grandma Gatewood stayed when she did the AT at age 68 and again at 70. She carried her personals in a gunny sack. When she got to this point, she had worn out 13 pairs of Keds. The building we are staying in is where the Thompson family refines maple syrup. They have over 1000 acres of maple trees and hundreds of miles of lines carrying the maple syrup to this building. Well, enough writing. Big mountain tomorrow. Take care.

Day 14 (July 8th)

Made 15 tough miles in New Hampshire today. And these are the small warm-up mountains...  The big ones are to come. I need to carry plenty of water up, and I'm usually drenched in sweat half way up. Stopped at Bill Ackerly's place today. He is famous for offering ice cream, water, and games of croquet. Friendly octogenarian. His front porch was filled with thru-hikers coming and going. Going to try and get a good night's rest in order to tackle a few more miles tomorrow. Take care.

Day 13 (July 7th)

I started today off in Vermont and ended 15 miles later, crossing the beautiful Connecticut River into Hanover, New Hampshire. I'd say my favorite state so

far has been Vermont with the possible exception of Massachusetts. But New Hampshire looks promising. Hanover is quite a town -- an elitist air, but friendly people. Lots of bustle with Dartmouth College, one of the Ivy League schools. Prior to crossing over, I came through Norwich, Vermont. The first two houses after coming out of the woods had trail magic for thru-hikers. Cokes on ice and cookies, toothpaste, and gummy bears. What's more phenomenal: thru-hiking the AT or people generating trail magic? Toss up, but I'll be passing the magic on for sure. Started raining as I left Hanover about 1:30. Walked another five miles, and then hid my pack by a paved road and walked .8 miles to the Etna, NH General Store. Bought a huge sandwich and a 32 oz Fosters. A guy gave me a ride back to the trail head. He was delivering eggs to the store for resale. He also raises bees. After the sandwich and Fosters, I called it a day. The big New Hampshire mountains are ahead. Take care.

Day 12 (July 6th)

Day 12 was another long, 15+ mile day. I am stealth camping by a stream about 7 miles from Hanover, New Hampshire. Tomorrow will be the last day in Vermont. Met a guy at the shelter last night who teaches at Eastern Tennessee State and knows my niece, Shara, her husband, Dan, and even their daughter, Maddy. Shara also teaches there. Small world. Came by some long lines connected to trees in the forest. They were about half an inch plastic tubes for conducting Maple sap to be made into the famous Vermont syrup. Quite a long network connecting lots of trees. I've also been amazed by the ubiquitous stone walls that show up randomly in the Vermont forests. Unbelievably hard work done in colonial times. Found some more trail magic coming off a mountain today. Someone left a cooler with water, cookies, candy bars, and graham crackers with a sign specifically inviting 2014 thru-hikers to enjoy. I did! The infamous White Mountains of New Hampshire are the next test. I hope Vermont has put me in shape. Take care.

Day 10 (July 4th)

I started today in rain. Fortunately, I had a short, 10-mile, predominately-downhill hike planned. Everything worked well. I am staying in a motel in Killington, Vermont. I will clean up and resupply for the next four-day push into New Hampshire, my second of 14 states touched by the AT.

Day 9 (July 3rd)

Yesterday ended in rain with me running out of water, but the guy I shared a shelter with was the biggest challenge. He was a chain smoker and, as I mentioned, smoked a joint about every 6th cigarette, pacing all the time and covering every topic imaginable. Never slept. Smokers hack all night, and he paced with a head lamp on. Thankfully morning came, and I took off. Staying at the top of Killington peak, Vermont tonight in the tent. No more shelters if I can help it. The mice got into my trail mix, too. It was a difficult 3 miles uphill today, but I made 10 miles. Tomorrow is the 4th! I'm going to find a cold beer and celebrate this great land!

Day 8 (July 2nd)

Today was another 13 mile day. Got rained on during the night, but the tent was dry. Nice hike: uneventful except that I failed to pack enough water and suffered some dehydration before I came to a stream. The stuff is just so heavy! Got caught in a thunderstorm about 3:30, but I was only five minutes from a shelter so am now warm, dry and drowsy -- might be this schytzo smoking dope with whom I'm sharing the shelter... Still loving Vermont! Take care.

Day 7 (July 1st)

Today was an easy 12 miles. I Packed and was on the trail by 7:00 a.m. Walked by a hiker sleeping along the trail: no tent; just a pad and sleeping bag. His head was ,and I could not figure out how he was not being eaten alive by bugs. He caught me later and said the bugs hovered but never landed on his face. Incredible! Also met a guy from Indiana who was wearing a kilt on the trail. They work well to prevent chafing. Went swimming twice today in streams and ponds along the route. Again, some beautiful scenery. Staying at a shelter tonight: pitched my tent on a platform for that purpose. Another good day. Take care.

Day 6 (June 30th)

Day six on the AT was another interesting one. Made another 13 miles today. Climbed some challenging peaks; sat in a ski-lift chair at the top of a slope; was the recipient of trail magic; and met a talented hiker dog.

About half way through the day, I came across a grocery sack alongside the trail. It was full of goodies:
crackers, nuts, smokies, and a 20 oz lager! And It had my name on it! Jim, Kim, and Kay had placed it there after they left me on day five. What a treat, and no one else had disturbed it. Ate it all.

Met a Connecticut teacher and his dog on the trail, too. Smart dog: seems that when he has to take a crap, he paws at his master. That's the signal to get the trowel and head to the woods so dog can do his business and master can bury it according to camping etiquette. Sounds like a lot of crap, but I witnessed the whole thing happen as I was discussing Connecticut Public Education with the guy. Dog had his own back pack, too.

Stealth camping at the top of a Vermont Mountain (Styles Peak) tonight. That way, I can start tomorrow off going downhill. It's been a great day. Take care.