Day 39 (August 2)

Today was a short, four-mile day. I crossed the Kennebec River, the only river that requires a ferry service and one of the psychological barriers on the AT. A guy in a canoe paddles two hikers at a time across the river. A few years ago, a lady tried wading across and was swept away by a sudden rise in water caused by an upstream dam release. The AT Conservancy now hires a guy to paddle hikers across the water. I stayed in the river town of Caratuk thinking I would avoid a couple days of rain on the forecast. Of course,  it was sunny all day. Staying tomorrow, too. My first zero! Nice B&B called the Sterling Inn. All of my hiker buddies will be one or two days ahead of me now.

Day 37 (July 31)

I left the Stratton Motel today at 7:10 a.m. and made 15.3 miles today. Climbed three good mountains, the last of the big mountains in Maine. Started with South Horn Mountain, moved on to Bigelow Mountain, and finished with Avery Peak. Myron Avery was the guy who took 

Benton MacKaye's vision for the AT and made it happen. Alas, McKaye is given all the credit when Avery did all the work! Avery had the misfortune of dying at 53, while MacKaye lived well into old age and was around whenever accolades were handed out. It was a good day of hiking -- despite being pitched into the woods by slippery roots a record of three times. I kept my shoes dry all day until I had to cross a stream to the shelter whereupon I slipped and took a plunge. Boy was I sputtering after that! The rocks were slippery because it was raining. Staying in a shelter tonight with five others. Tomorrow is an easy walk: no more mountains. Take care.

Day 36 (July 30)

Today was a short, eight-mile day. I left my stealth camp on the side of the Carrabassett River, climbed South and North Crocker Mountains, and got a ride into Stratton, Maine to resupply, do laundry, and eat real food: beer, chocolate shakes, and pizza. Had a shower and am sleeping in a real bed tonight sans the mosquitoes -- who are largely off digesting 50% of me anyway. I'm running into a number of SOBOs (south-bounders) now. Man am I glad I don't have to do what they have to do, i.e. get through the Whites! Hope to get a 7:00 a.m. start heading north tomorrow. Take care.

Day 35 (July 29)

The rain of last night quit by morning, but it was pretty cold -- in the 50s. A mouse chewed the bite valve on my camelback water bladder during the night. Guess the critter didn't want to filter any rain water. Weather straightened out about 11:00 a.m. Went about 13 miles. Climbed Lone Mt., Spaulding Mt., and Sugarloaf Mt. The last one, Sugarloaf, had a tough downhill -- very steep and rocky. Had to ford two rivers (Orbeton and Carrabassett) today as well. Fun. Tenting again tonight by the Carrabassett. Nice sound. Short day tomorrow. Going in to resupply at Stratton, Maine. Take care.

Day 34 (July 28)

 Last night's stay at the Hiker Hut outside of Rangeley, Maine was the best hostel stay I have had yet. Kathy and Steve run the hut. It is off the grid and has no electricity or cell service, and yet it has a comfortable bunkhouse, porch, adjoining kitchen, and a surrounding plethora of garden flowers. Truly aesthetics of the 60s. Kathy made us a fantastic supper on an old gas stove (three courses!). Steve, a former world class tri-athelete of the 80s, got a camp fire going. It was magical.

I left this morning at 8:00 a.m., and by nine it was raining/pouring again. I walked in the rain for six hours and got to a shelter about 3:30 p.m. Five guys were hold up there, trying to dry out. We are all still here in our sleeping bags, trying to stay warm and waiting out the weather. I was still able to climb a couple of Maine's bigger mountains: Saddle Back, The Horn, and Saddle Back Junior. A bit trecherous in the rain. The trail was a torrent of flood water -- quite absurd. I made it to the shelter, though, and dried out.

Day 33 (July 27)

Today was a short hike: only nine miles. I got an early 5:30 a.m. start. All the French high school girls were still sleeping, and I didn't want to compete for privy privileges. At nine miles, it was looking like rain, and I was close to a hostel, so I decided to get a bunk. Good thing. Pouring now. I am dry, enjoying pizza and beer in Rangely, Maine. Beautiful area with big lakes and,of course, mountains. Up Saddleback Mountain tomorrow.

Day 32 (July 26)

I spent last evening at Pine Ellis hiker hostel in Andover, Maine. The place was full. About six hikers were sitting on the porch enjoying a few beers when a guy doing a documentary on the AT showed up. He videoed and interviewed a few hikers. People got a bit excited. The guy didn't think to interview Ilene Trainor, the owner of the place for the past 25 years. She was on the porch reading her book. Never said a word. 

I did 17 miles today. Covered Old Blue Mountain and Bemis Mountain. Smoked my head coming up Bemis: I was struggling with an uphill, looking down at my feet, and bam! I'm on my back, hat off. My sticks went flying. Felt like a turtle trying to right itself. I hit a wind fall tree about head high across the trail. Just didn't see it with the effort of climbing. I think I was out for a second, but I rallied with some passionate adjectives, so I still have some mental function. Staying at Sabbath Day Pond Shelter tonight. Beautiful lake here. The place is full of high school girls, all of whom are speaking French. Pretty cool. It was a gorgeous day of hiking! Take care.